Dog - Wisconsin Humane Society

Crate Training
Crate training your dog can take time and effort, but the results are well worth it. Using a crate provides several important benefits:
- Helps limit access to your home while your dog is learning the “house rules”
- Prevents inappropriate chewing and the ingestion of harmful items
- Gives your dog a personal space or “den” of their own
- Provides a safe way to travel with your dog in the car
- Offers a secure place for your dog to retreat when feeling scared or stressed
- Supports the housetraining process
Important Notes About Crate Use
- A crate is a helpful tool but should never replace proper training
- Crates should only be used for short periods of time
- Never use the crate as punishment
- Always associate the crate with positive experiences
- Take crate training slowly, using small steps
Choosing the Right Crate

Crates come in various sizes and materials. Choose one that is large enough for your dog to stand up, lie down, and turn around comfortably. Crates may be plastic (“flight kennels”), collapsible metal pens, or soft-sided fabric models (best used only when you’re supervising your dog).

Starting the Crate Training Process

Crate training can take days or even weeks, depending on your dog’s age, personality, and past experiences. If your dog isn’t ready to be crated, use a safe, easy-to-clean room, or block off an area using baby gates. You can also keep your dog close on a leash. Remove anything chewable or dangerous. When your dog is loose in the house, always supervise closely.

Important: If your dog shows signs of stress—such as panting, drooling, shaking, trying to escape, tucking their tail, or refusing food or treats—pause the training, slow down, and go back a step or two. If the behavior continues, contact a professional trainer.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate
1. Place the crate in a common area where the family spends time. Add a soft blanket or towel. Keep the door securely open.
2. Bring your dog to the crate and speak in a happy, relaxed tone.
3. Encourage your dog to explore it by tossing high-value treats (like small bits of hot dog or cheese) near the crate, then just inside the door, and gradually farther in.
4. If your dog doesn’t go in right away, that’s okay—never force them. Try using a favorite toy if treats don’t work.
5. Praise your dog when they enter the crate. Practice this five times per session and repeat several times a day.
Step 2: Feed Meals in the Crate
1. Begin feeding your dog near the crate to create a positive association. Gradually move the food bowl farther inside.
2. If your dog is comfortable going in, place the bowl at the back of the crate.
3. At first, leave the door open while they eat. Once they’re comfortable, start closing the door during meals.
4. Gradually increase the time your dog stays in the crate after eating. If they whine, you may have increased time too quickly. Try shorter periods next time.
5. Don’t let your dog out while they are whining, or they will learn that whining gets them what they want.
Step 3: Practice Longer Crate Time
1. Once your dog eats in the crate without fear and enters willingly, start short crate sessions while you’re home.
2. Use a consistent cue like “kennel up.” Reward your dog with a treat and praise once they enter.
3. Close the door, take a step away, then return and reward again. Gradually vary the amount of time and distance.
4. Practice several times a day. Slowly build up to 30 minutes with you out of sight.
5. Once your dog stays calmly for 30 minutes, you can begin crating them when you leave or at bedtime.
Step 4:
Part A – Crating When You Leave
1. Once your dog is comfortable in the crate, use your cue and a treat before leaving.
2. Provide safe toys and enrichment, like a stuffed Kong (freeze it to make it last longer).
3. Crate your dog 5–20 minutes before leaving.
4. Keep your departures and returns calm and quiet.
5. Occasionally crate your dog while you’re home, so they don’t associate the crate only with being alone.
Part B – Crating at Night
1. Use your cue and a treat to guide your dog into the crate at bedtime.
2. At first, keep the crate nearby (example: in your bedroom or hallway). This is especially helpful with puppies who may need a nighttime potty break.
3. Once your dog is sleeping through the night comfortably, you can gradually move the crate to your preferred location.
Step 5: Maintaining Crate Reliability and Training
- Never use the crate as punishment or leave your dog confined too long.
- Continue to intermittently reward your dog for entering the crate, even once they’ve learned the routine.
- Leave the door open when not actively training. Occasionally toss treats or toys inside to keep the crate a positive space and allow them to use it as their safe space
Potential Problems

Too Much Time in the Crate

Crates are not a long-term confinement solution. If your dog is crated all day and again at night, they may become frustrated and other arrangements should be made to accommodate their physical and emotional needs. Puppies under 6 months shouldn’t be crated for more than 3–4 hours – this may lead to accidents.

Whining

If your dog whines, ignore it at first. If they persist, use your potty cue to check if they need to go out. If they respond positively to the potty cue, take them outside for a quick break—but not playtime. Avoid reinforcing whining by letting them out “just because.”

Not Ready for the Crate

If your dog is not yet ready for the crate, he should be contained in a safe room or a gated area that is easy to clean. Always supervise and remove anything dangerous your dog might chew or swallow.

Sign of Separation Anxiety

Crating does not cause separation anxiety; it is an emotional state intrinsic to the dog. Attempting to use crate training as a remedy for separation anxiety will not solve it. This condition requires a professional behavior plan, including desensitization and counter-conditioning. Do not crate your dog if they show these signs when left alone:
- Attempts to escape the crate
- Destructive behavior to the crate and/or doors or windows (exit points of the home)
- Excessive stress panting, drooling, barking, or whining
- Not eating when alone
- Accidents in the house (despite housetraining)
- Self-injury
Should you suspect your dog has this condition, you should consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

If your dog truly seems to panic while in the crate by excessively drooling or trying to chew through the crate, please contact the Wisconsin Humane Society’s Behavior Line at 414-431-6173 or email behavior@wihumane.org for assistance.
Pet Licensing
There are many great reasons to get your animals licensed, but the most important reason is that it’s the law – Wisconsin State Statute requires that all dogs and cats over five months of age must receive a Rabies vaccination tag and license tag.

Plus, stray pets that are licensed are more likely to be reunited quickly with their owners.

The Wisconsin Humane Society provides licensing services at these campuses:
- Milwaukee Campus, for any Milwaukee County municipality
- Green Bay Campus, for City of Green Bay ONLY
For costs and requirements, contact the WHS Campus in your area listed above.
Please note: the Ozaukee, Racine, Kenosha, and Door County Campuses do not provide licensing services.

For additional pet licensing information for your area, including costs and where to purchase, please click on your county below.
- Brown County
- Door County
- Kenosha County
- Kewaunee County
- Manitowoc County
- Milwaukee County
- Ozaukee County
- Racine County
- Sheboygan County
- Washington County
- Waukesha County
What is Bordetella?

What is Bordetella?

Bordetella bronchiseptica is a bacterium that is associated with respiratory disease in dogs. It is one of the components of the canine infectious respiratory complex, sometimes referred to as kennel cough, upper respiratory infection, or infectious tracheobronchitis.

Dogs who will be in areas where they may come into contact with other dogs (e.g. doggy day care, the groomers, the dog park, boarding facilities) are more likely to come into contact with this bacterium and develop signs of an upper respiratory infection. Clinical signs of an upper respiratory infection include sneezing, nasal discharge, congestion, coughing, etc. If you suspect that your dog has kennel cough, it is important to isolate your dog from other dogs and contact your veterinarian right away.

There are bordetella vaccines available for dogs which can lessen the severity of disease and can even prevent infection altogether. This vaccine is an optional vaccine, not a core vaccine. Your veterinarian can help you determine whether this vaccine is appropriate for your dog. The bordetella vaccine, along with the core vaccines and microchips, is offered at all our locations at our monthly vaccine clinics.
The Trade Game

When your dog has a high-value item (like a special treat, favorite toy, or chew), it’s important to help them feel relaxed and comfortable if they’re approached. Taking items away from your dog can cause stress, anxiety, and expressions of aggression. This is why teaching them to “trade” rather than “stealing” from them is so valuable. Thankfully, there is a process we call “the trade game” which will help you both feel more at ease. This game can be played with toys and household items that your dog often picks up. Items that are unsafe for your dog or easily damaged should be kept out of reach while you are developing these skills. Keep in mind that this is not a game to play during mealtimes – you should always allow your dog to eat their meal without interference from humans or other animals.

Safety First!

This is a process that teaches dogs to relinquish items and remain calm and relaxed as you approach. These steps are meant to be a preventative measure against resource guarding. If your dog becomes stiff, growls, or otherwise shows a high level of discomfort, immediately stop what you are doing and seek out a professional for additional support.

Warm up:

Before you begin your training procedure, we’ll start by teaching your dog that good things happen when you approach, even when they don’t have a resource. Discreetly place a few treats in your pocket; whenever your dog is laying down, drop a treat next to them and walk away. Continue to do this periodically and routinely throughout the day. Do not pet them or attempt to otherwise interact with them, simply drop the treat and leave. This will establish an important pattern for your dog before you add in the pressure of a resource being a part of the picture.

Step one:

The first step is to teach your dog that good things happen when you are in the room while they have possession of an object. Cut up teeny tiny pieces of a high value treat, like cheese or hot dogs, then either set out one of your dog’s favorite toys (or other valued item) or wait until they pick an item up on their own. Once they have started chewing on or playing with the item, toss a few tiny pieces of treat (one after another) toward your dog from several feet away. Do not approach them or attempt to otherwise interact with them. If they readily eat the pieces of food that you toss, you can progress to step two.

If your dog sees but does not eat the tossed treat when they are in possession of an item, stop there and consider your next step. If they won’t give up the item to eat the treat you tossed from a distance, the item they have is too valuable to the dog and you should not move on to step two (nor should you attempt to take that item away from them). Instead, try tossing them a higher value treat until they do drop the item to go get the treat.

Step two:

Now that you know your dog is comfortable eating treats you’ve tossed to them from a distance, you can work on approaching them. Approach your dog while watching their body language, drop a few treats on the ground next to the item (do NOT attempt to touch your dog or the item), and continue walking past them. Observe what your dog does next. Do they readily eat the treats? Or even get up and follow you to ask for more? Great! You’re ready for the next step.

Step three:

Approach your dog and once again drop a few treats. Do they happily eat the treats that you’ve dropped? If so, toss more treats a few feet away from them. Do NOT attempt to pick up the toy at this time. Observe what happens next. Do they rush out to the treats, gobble them up, and come flying back to the toy? If they do, continue to practice steps 1-3 until they become more relaxed, eat the treats at a slower pace, and casually walk back to their item (if they return to it at all) rather than rushing back to it. Once they are visibly relaxed with this progression, you can move on to step four.

Step four:

Go back through steps one through three and confirm that your dog is still relaxed and comfortable with the protocol thus far. If they are, you can now toss your treats a few feet away and — while your dog is eating the treats – you can pick up the toy. When they return to you, give them the toy. We want to teach them that it’s ok for us to pick up their toy, and it doesn’t strictly mean they’re losing access to an object they strongly desire. That way, the small percentage of time that you do need to take and keep an item from your dog, it is relatively inconsequential.

Step five:

At this point, your dog should be readily trading items for treats. You can now add a verbal cue onto the behavior. Popular examples include “drop it” or “out,” but you can use any word or phrase. Say your verbal cue, toss your treats for your dog, then pick up the item. Eventually, the verbal cue will predict food for your dog and they will immediately spit the item out.

Remember, your dog has no concept of what is and what is not appropriate to pick up. If they pick up an item that they should not have, play the trade game and praise them highly for the good choice of trading with you! After you take the inappropriate item, remember to always offer them something that they can have so they learn which items are ok to play with.
Stealing & Counter Surfing

Does your dog steal things from countertops or other accessible spaces?

While this behavior can be frustrating and even dangerous, your dog has no concept of what we deem “right” and “wrong;” it is our job to teach them. Before you begin training, it’s best to remind yourself that this is normal behavior and your dog is not intentionally “misbehaving.”

Physical management

Management is an important part of any training plan. Unless you are actively in a training session with your dog, they should not have access to items that you don’t want them to take. When you’re not training, countertops should be kept clear if possible, or items should be pushed far enough back that they can’t be reached. If your dog likes to go through the garbage, make sure the cans have lids and are too heavy to tip over. You can also place garbage cans behind a baby gate or in a closet. Crates and pens can also be used to create a safe space for your dog when you’re not able to closely monitor them.

Alternative behaviors:

Setting your dog up to practice alternative behaviors is a powerful technique! Any time you catch your dog trying to steal something from the counter, ask yourself “what else can I give them to do?” Dogs often find items to take and entertain themselves out of boredom. To keep them mentally enriched, try providing a “long-term chew,” such as a filled/frozen Kong, bully stick, or marrow bone. In addition to edible chews, be sure to provide your dog with a variety of dog-safe toys so they have ample opportunity to make appropriate choices. If you don’t currently have these items at home, check out our online store for a variety of chews and toys to choose from. All proceeds from your sale go straight back to the animals at WHS!

Teaching incompatible behaviors:

Until they’re taught otherwise, dogs believe they should simply jump up and grab something if they want it. It’s our job to teach them more appropriate ways to ask for what they want. Try teaching your dog to sit, then reinforce every “sit” with food. With routine practice, they’ll learn that sitting is the way to ask for food, rather than jumping.

When our dogs do take items:

It is also important to teach our dogs to be comfortable with us taking items away from them. This keeps both you and your dog safe, plus it prevents frustrating games of “keep away” when your dog takes off with something they shouldn’t have. If your dog has possession of an item that you do not want them to have, get a high value treat (like cheese or hot dogs) and trade them for that item. Once you have traded for the original item, give them something else that is appropriate for them to play with. This might be a plush toy, a filled Kong, a hard chew, or a bully stick. If you find that there are predictable times of the day where your dog often steals items, this may be a sign that they need a routine play session or added enrichment to focus that energy in a more productive way.

These skills, among others, are taught and expanded upon in our dog training classes! Our current class schedule and registration information can be found on our training webpage.
Senior Pet FAQ
Senior animals make wonderful pets and excellent companions. There are many benefits to adding a senior pet to your family. Before you look past a senior, consider some of the benefits. Some of the great reasons to adopt a senior are:
- Predictable behavior – when a dog reaches senior status their personality is well developed. You’ll even know the full-grown size and activity level before you bring them home.
- Easy to train – who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks? Seniors require less monitoring and typically have a baseline of training.
- Lower exercise – senior dogs typically don’t want to run a marathon. They’d rather hang back and spend quality time hanging out with you in the comfort of a climate-controlled space. Take them for a short walk or a swim and today’s exercise is complete!
- More sleep for you! – Senior dogs are much more accustomed to the predictable daytime and evening patterns of their families. This means that your bedtime typically isn’t their play time, and Fido often has no problem staying asleep through the night.
Senior dogs do need some special accommodations.

To keep your dog at prime health, most veterinarians recommend a checkup every 6 months for any dog considered to be a senior. Senior status is typically dependent on age, but other factors such as breed or size can also be a factor.

As dogs age, they typically slow down. It can be challenging to ensure that they are getting enough exercise and to keep a healthy weight. Providing your pet with low-impact exercise is a great way to keep them mentally and physically stimulated. Low-impact activities include short walks, gentle play, indoor games, swimming, or hiking on flat terrain. Running long distances or taking a strenuous walk may be rough on joints, especially for pets who aren’t used to that level of exercise. If weight is an issue, reach out to your vet for a weight loss plan. Talk to your veterinarian about whether your pet would benefit from a diet formulated for senior animals.

One of the most frequent problem areas for senior pets is their teeth! Unfortunately, bad oral health can end up affecting the whole body. Keep teeth and gums healthy by preventing tartar build-up. If too much tartar gets on your pet’s teeth it can cause a slew of health issues by allowing bacteria to get into the bloodstream. There are many ways you can prevent tartar build-up. This includes:
- Visit the VOHC (Veterinary Oral Health Counsel) for a list of dental chew and other oral health products
- Brushing your dog’s teeth at least twice a week
- Consult with your veterinarian about feeding a prescription dental health diet
Selecting a Dog Professional

This information is provided by Shelter Playgroup Alliance

Selecting a Dog Trainer

The techniques that a trainer uses will affect your dog’s behavior for years post-training. Because of the impact, it is very important to choose your trainer wisely.

Dog training is an unregulated industry, and while there are certifications and great training programs, they are not a guarantee of the quality of you and your dog’s experience. Remember, training should be a fun experience for both of you!

Selecting a Dog Walker

Many dog walkers are people who love dogs and see the dog walking profession as a fun way to combine their passion with a career. Unfortunately, there are no professional standards to prepare walkers for handling multiple dogs at once. Determine what your pet’s needs are and what their experience will be, before you start looking for your canine’s new walking companion. Each outing with your dog walker should be an enjoyable and positive experience for your dog.

Selecting a Boarding or Day Care Facility

A great boarding or day care facility can provide enriching experiences for your dog while you are away at work or traveling. Be sure to select a boarding or day care facility that will treat your dog with the love and care that you would. Great boarding or day care facilities maintain safety and take into account each dog’s behavioral needs.
Safe Separation for Dogs who Guard Resources

Resource Guarding is a common and normal behavior that we often see in dogs.

When a dog is in possession of a resource (food, treats, toys, etc.) and reacts defensively toward people or animals who approach or attempt to take that item, it’s called resource guarding. Their reaction can range from a quiet head-turn to a loud growl, forward charge, or an actual bite. Dogs are especially prone to guarding high-value items such as their food, bully sticks, or pig ears. They may also guard non-edible items, such as toys, household objects, or even spaces, like the couch or their bed.

Dogs who exhibit resource-guarding behaviors require a higher level of management so that they can be safe and successful. It is important to give them edible items in a space where they will not be disturbed by people or other animals. As with all dogs, it’s important to teach children that they should never crawl on a dog, play with them while they’re eating, or attempt to take a treat from them. Below are just a few options for safely separating dogs who resource guard when they are given food or other edible items.

In a crate:

Crates are incredibly helpful tools for dogs who resource guard. You can give your dog their regular meals in their crate along with any edible items that you may offer them, such as bones, bully sticks, or pigs’ ears. The bonus? Feeding your dog in their crate helps to increase their overall level of comfort with the crate.

Behind a baby gate:

You can also feed your dog behind a baby gate, just keep in mind that you should not enter that room until they have finished their meal. Be aware of the other animals in the house as well; this would not be an appropriate option for families with cats or other dogs who may jump over the baby gate while the dog is eating.

Inside a puppy pen:

Feeding your dog inside a puppy pen is a great option for resource guarders. Keep in mind that as these pens do not typically have a top, making them an inappropriate choice for families with cats or dogs who could potentially jump inside while your dog is eating.

A special note:

If there are other animals or children in your home, you may need a double barrier system. If an animal or small child attempts to interact with your dog while they are eating — even with a barrier between them – your dog may still have a negative reaction. It is important to avoid this as it will only increase your dog’s level of discomfort. Instead, for example, you may choose to feed them in a crate that is in a bedroom and close the door behind you when you leave, eliminating the possibility of an unsafe scenario.
Pulling

The reason your dog pulls is because he is motivated to move forward to get to something. Sound simple?

Consider this. Your dog’s natural response to pressure is to push into it. So, when your dog feels pressure on his collar, his NATURAL response is to, pull!

Your dog also learns from experience. If your dog wanted to move forward and you pulled back, he learned that he needs to pull HARDER to get to where he wants to go. As you may guess, this cycle continues until walks are no longer any fun!

The Wisconsin Humane Society has several ways to help you with your pulling dog. Manners classes are offered Monday through Saturday and teach many cues, including how to walk on a loose leash. To help with the training process, our Animal Anitics store offers different training equipment.

The SENSE-ible Harness®

This harness is a no-pull harness that works immediately with no training required, painlessly and effectively, to stop pulling. The leash connection ring is located on the center of the chest strap so that when your dog pulls, he feels a sensation behind his front legs that will cause him to cease pulling. The dog does not need to be wearing a collar. There are buckles that need to be fitted for this harness to work correctly.

The Gentle Leader

This head collar is designed to encourage the dog to sit, stop pulling, stop lunging and prevent jumping. When fitted properly, your dog is free to open his mouth to eat, drink, pant, fetch and bark. Unlike the harness above, this headcollar can not be placed on the dog for immediate use. The dog needs time to get accustomed to how this feels before using it to manage their behavior. The Gentle Leader is NOT a muzzle.

The Weiss Walkie™

This leash is a great tool for dog walkers that want an easy, dog-friendly way to walk their dogs immediately without pulling and with no training required. The Weiss Walkie works like a harness to stop pulling comfortably and humanely. It is a simple loop that does not have any buckles to adjust and attaches to a dog’s regular buckle collar.

The Martingale Collar

This collar was originally designed for dogs whose necks are larger than their heads, like sighthounds. It is a flat nylon collar that has a short, no slip loop, made of nylon. This is appropriate for dogs that slip out of their traditional buckle collar. This collar is fitted to the exact size of the dog’s neck when the dog collar is in the closed position. When the Martingale loop is tightened by the leash, the collar should then be snug, but will not constrict the airway when fitted properly.

To make the best possible fit for your companion and your pulling issues, please stop by the store and talk to one of our trained counselors to have your training equipment custom fitted.

If you are seeking additional support, contact our behavior department at 414-431-6173 or behavior@wihumane.org.
Lyme Disease
Helping to Prevent Lyme Disease Transmission

Lyme Disease is a debilitating illness that is transmitted by deer ticks. These ticks live on deer and mice and tend to be found in wooded areas. Humans may experience flu-like symptoms and a bull’s eye type rash with a white center that may appear after the bite. If you become ill with fever, headaches, chills or pain in your muscles or joints after camping or hiking in wooded areas, it is recommended that you see your physician. The long-term effects, if left untreated, can include heart, eye, respiratory and digestive issues.

Companion animals can also suffer from Lyme Disease. Symptoms in animals can include, loss of appetite, lameness, listlessness, swollen glands and joints or fever. Long-term affects of Lyme’s disease in animals include problems with the heart, liver, kidney, nervous system and eyes.

Lyme Disease is most successfully treated in humans and animals if diagnosed early. Treatment includes antibiotics under the supervision of your physician or veterinarian. Relapses and complications are possible.

The best way to protect yourself or your companion animal from contracting Lyme Disease is to avoid areas where deer ticks are found. The following additional precautions can be taken when traveling and at home to minimize the risk.
- Tuck in clothing in order to limit exposed skin.
- Wear light colored clothing to more easily spot ticks.
- Make frequent inspections for ticks on you, loved ones and companion animals.
- Heating worn clothing in the dryer for 30 minutes can kill any ticks that may remain on clothes unseen.
- Stay on trails during hikes and keep your companion leashed beside you.
- Apply repellants, but be sure to read the label carefully for ingredients that may be harmful to children or animals.
- Talk to your veterinarian about continual protection for your animal from ticks.
- If you live near wooded areas, clear away brush or vegetation from your yard that might attract deer or wild mice.
- Keep your lawn mowed and limit lawn watering.
- Don’t plant items that would attract deer.
- Brush your animal completely over a light colored surface in which ticks can be easily spotted after returning from a wooded area.
- All tick removal should be done at the site, if possible, to limit the spread of deer ticks into new areas.
Removing ticks can be done with special removers like the Tick Twister, or a tweezer by gently pulling straight out. Avoid squeezing the tick as additional bacteria could enter the bloodstream.

You can learn more about Lyme Disease and tick identification by visiting the CDC here.