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  • Resource-Guarding Reduction

    Resource-Guarding Reduction

    Tips to set your new dog up for success!

    When bringing home a new canine companion who has previously exhibited resource guarding behaviors, it is important to prepare the environment for their arrival. Just a few extra steps will help reduce stress, improve relaxation, and minimize the opportunity for resource guarding behaviors. 

    Pick up all items of value

    If there is another dog or cat in the home, pick up all items belonging to your resident animal (ex. toys, chew bones, etc). Since what a dog deems “valuable” can be different for each dog, also pick up all children’s toys, especially plush stuffed animals. It may be easiest to keep the doors closed to the bedrooms or children’s play area. 

    Limit guests for the first few days

    Your new canine companion has been through many changes over the last few days, and just like many people in new environments, they require time to adjust and settle in before being ready to make new friends. Give your dog time to adjust to your home and family before inviting visitors over.

    Define a safe place for the new dog to eat her meals, chew on new toys, or play with enrichment items

    This space should be an area you can completely close off with either a door or a baby gate to prevent people or other animals from entering the area. A crate can be used for this purpose; however, it is important that no family members (human or furry) stick fingers or hands inside the crate to pet the dog or are able to put their noses up against the bars while the dog is inside. 

    Keep your dog out of the kitchen while preparing meals or eating

    It is easy to accidentally drop a piece of food while preparing meals, leading to a situation where you would need to take an unsafe item away. To avoid this, we recommend putting up a gate or putting the dog in their crate to keep them out of the kitchen, and giving them an enrichment item while you are preparing your meals. 

    All family members should eat at the table or counter – including snacks

    Eating in the kitchen/dining room reduces the opportunity for your dog to reach lap level plates or take food out of small children’s hands. We want to avoid situations where a child might try to retrieve their dropped food from the dog’s mouth. We recommend that everyone eats at a table/counter, or that you place the dog in their “safe place” while people are eating food in another area (ex. crate the dog during a pizza and movie night on the couch).

    Place your dog in a separate room or crate during large gatherings

    During large gatherings of people and food, like birthday parties or holidays, it is best to have your dog enjoy an enrichment item in their safe space. This will avoid any accidental interactions or chances of food-guarding behaviors. 

    Do you have another dog at home?

    YouTube video
  • Exercise for Dogs

    Exercise for Dogs

    Exercise is a basic daily need, like eating and drinking, and if it isn’t adequately provided, serious consequences may ensue. Your dog may begin to act extremely “hyper” and put more energy into destructive activities.

    For young dogs, exercising twice daily isn’t just a nice thing to do; it’s an absolute necessity.

    Remember, a walk around the block is NOT exercise for most dogs. As a general rule, most adult dogs need morning and evening walks as well as 15 minutes of interactive play each day.

    In order to ensure your dog is properly exercised, try the following:

    • Teach him to retrieve a ball or other favorite item. Keep him running back and forth until he tires noticeably. Tiring him out may take time, so be prepared. Introduce retrieving by using a ball or other toy when he wants to play with you. Don’t play roughhouse games; instead, teach him that play means retrieving.
    • Another good running game you can use for exercise is “hide and seek.” This game requires that you have a reliable recall, so work on that first. Once you’ve taught him to come on cue, have someone distract or hold him while you go a short distance away and hide. Call him just once, but keep praising until he finds you. Gradually make it more difficult for him, but go slowly and always make sure he “wins.
    • You may enjoy jogging with your dog, but remember to gradually increase the mileage. Never overwork an unconditioned dog. Dogs, like humans, need to begin an exercise program slowly.
    • Don’t forget that safety is as important to your companion’s health as exercise, thus keep your dog on a leash while walking and jogging.
    • Watch the weather. Avoid exercising in extremely hot or cold temperatures.
    • Never exercise your dog by tying him to a moving vehicle.
    • Avoid running, jumping, and exercising your dog on a full stomach. Exercising your dog on a full stomach can cause bloat/gastric dilation, which can be life-threatening. If this should occur, your companion should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.

  • Dog Body Language

    Page coming soon – stay tuned!

  • Introducing Dogs to Cats

    Introducing Dogs to Cats

    Bringing a new animal into a home when you already have pets can be exciting, but also potentially stressful on all the animals involved. Whether you are bringing home a new dog and have a resident cat or if you are bringing home a new cat and have a resident dog, it is important to take precautions and perform slow introductions. There are many cats and dogs who live successfully together in homes, but some cats and dogs are unable to coexist successfully due to their individual personalities and dispositions. Unfortunately, dogs and cats can cause significant damage to one another if introductions go wrong, so it’s crucial to do some advanced planning and preparation before they meet.

    Even if the animals have lived with other species and done well in the past, proceed with caution; just like with humans, every individual pairing is different and compatibility will vary. It is always best to have two people present during introductions. If you have more than one cat or dog, be sure to introduce them each to the new pet separately.

    Finding a Good Match

    The first thing that will be important is finding a good match for your resident pet. If you are looking at adding a dog to your home and already have a cat, it may be easier to bring home a younger dog versus an older one, or adopting a dog who has a history of living successfully with other animals. If you want a dog who will be trustworthy around small animals (such as gerbils, guinea pigs, or rabbits), you’re generally better off starting with a puppy and raising them to know appropriate behavior around these species. It is much more challenging to change inappropriate behaviors and associations in an adult dog than it is to create appropriate ones in a young dog. 

    If you have a dog who obsessively barks, growls, lunges, attempts to chase, pin, pick up, or bite at cats, we recommend they live in a cat-free home. If you still decide to bring a cat into your home, you will need to have a management plan in place and proceed with extreme caution. It will also be important that you work one on one with a certified, force-free trainer to ensure everyone’s safety. Likewise, if you have a cat who growls, swats, runs from, or hides from dogs, even after a slow introduction, consider if your cat will really enjoy living with a dog or if it will just increase their stress, which may in turn cause other behavior issues or increase the severity of existing ones.

    If you have a dog who loves to play by chasing things, including small animals, a shy cat who runs away or an energetic cat who runs and pounces may not be the best fit. These cats may trigger the dog to chase, which can lead to escalation of the behavior and potential injuries. A better match for this type of dog would be a calm, confident cat who will not run in fear or play. 

    For homes with elderly or anxious resident pets, it would be best to match them up with a laid-back, calm animal. Energetic and rambunctious pets may bother, hurt, or frighten the other pet. They can also cause more stress, which can also affect an animal’s health and well-being.

    Management

    The first step in the introduction process is management – this means setting up the environment to prevent a certain behavior or interaction before it starts, avoiding situations where either animal is able to do something you don’t want. Good management requires barriers, such as doors and/or baby gates, crates or pens, leashes, and supervision. If you have children who may forget to close doors and gates, or animals who know how to open doors or jump over gates, you will need to be sure to add extra management such as self-closing springs, child-proof latches, or locks. You can also look into acquiring extra tall gates or stacking two existing gates on top of each other vertically. Consider the make-up of the gate itself, as well – gates with cross-hatching grid patterns can become easy climbing walls for small paws, while gates with closely aligned vertical bars are much harder for pets to scale. Having a foolproof management plan will be important. Management will not only keep your pets separated safely during the initial introduction period, but it can also prevent the dog from going into a full chase sequence. Chasing is extremely rewarding to the canine brain and if they get a taste of it initially, they will be more likely to do it again. A dog’s desire to chase something that moves is an innate, hardwired behavior, meaning it does not have to be learned. There are some dogs who are bred for this and therefore have a stronger genetic propensity to practice the behavior. If you have a dog who obsesses over the closed door that a cat is behind, you will need to increase management to keep them far away enough from the door. This might require extra gates blocking off access to hallways leading to the room the cat is in. Cats should also always have high-up places to escape to if needed. Be sure to set up plenty of spots for your cat to retreat to or jump up to where the dog cannot reach them. This cat be a taller cat tree or just strategically arranged furniture that allows the cat to jump, for example, from a couch to a mantel, or a chair back to a ledge. 

    Getting Started

    1. Confinement | It will be important that both pets are kept separate initially. Depending on the individual animals, plan to have them separate for 3-4 days. Confine your new pet in a safe room with the door closed or on a separate floor of the house. This room should provide all essential items for your new pet, like food, water, toys, a litter box (if applicable), and a bed/crate. All essential information for setting your new pet up in your home can be found in our resources on setting your cat up for success and setting your dog up for success. Do not move on to the next step of the introduction process until your new pet is displaying relaxed body language in their safe space.
    2. Swap scents | Get both pets used to each other’s scent. Put down an old t-shirt or towel where your pets sleep for them to lay on. Once their scent is on these items, swap the items and put them in the other pet’s area. Do not set the scented items on the other animal’s sleeping place, simply put it somewhere in the open for the other pet to investigate on their own time. Once both animals are completely comfortable with each other’s scent, you can move to the next step. Remember, the key is to go slow and proceed with caution. 
    3. Structured introductions | After your new animal has decompressed and your resident animal has adjusted to the new change, you can begin initial introductions. The key is to go slow, especially if you do not know how either pet will do with the other species. Initial introductions should be done at a distance and focused on creating positive associations with each other. This means that your pets should not come nose-to-nose right away, and neither of the animals should be let loose into the room with the other one. These introductions may need to be adjusted to better fit what you can execute in your home. Two people will most likely be needed (and is highly recommended) in a majority of cases in order to keep everyone safe and as stress-free as possible. Here are a couple of scenarios that could be executed:
      — Create distance between the two animals by having your cat on one side of a gate and having your dog leashed on the other side. Both animals should be at a distance where they are aware of each other but are not reacting or showing signs of stress by barking, whining, becoming hyper-focused, hissing, spitting, or trying to escape. While both animals are relaxed but aware of each other, begin to feed a steady stream of high-value treats to each of them (this is partly why it’s ideal to have two people involved, so each animal has one human’s full attention). These sessions should be kept short and sweet; after a few minutes, either someone should leave the area with the cat or the dog so they can no longer see each other. As soon as they are no longer in eyesight of each other, the stream of food should stop. If at any point either animal stops eating the food, stop the interaction and try again later with increased distance between the two. Repeat this process several times and give both animals a break between sessions. Over time, you can slowly decrease the distance between the two animals as long are they are both showing relaxed body language and taking the treats. The food is not a distraction, but rather a way to change your pet’s response to one another and build positive associations. For example, instead of thinking “I need to chase,” your dog will start to see the cat and think “I get rewarded!”
      — If you do not have the option to separate the animals using a gate, you can have the cat in a room where they are safely perched on top of a cat tree or other tall surface. Enter the room with the dog on leash (do not close the door) and keep the distance between the two animals as far away as possible. Feed both animals a steady stream of high-value treats. If the cat panics and tries to run, do not force them to stay. They are letting you know they are not ready for this step or this close of an interaction. Quickly get the dog’s attention with a handful of treats, move away from the running cat if possible, and continue to distract them. If the dog is so excited that they refuse high-value treats (ex. cooked chicken, hot dogs, meatballs, etc.), they are also not ready for this step. 
      — If both of these steps are too overwhelming for either of the animals, you can take it a step back and focus on rewarding the cat or dog for moments when they calmly acknowledge the presence of the other. For example, if the dog is in the room with you and hears the cat vocalize or make noise from the other room, immediately offer a high value treat. It is ideal that you are able to give the treat before the dog gets up and goes searching for the source of the noise. Feed multiple treats to keep their attention on you and away from the cat. You are teaching the dog that the presence of the cat means good things (treats) and paying more attention to you – even when the cat is nearby –  is more rewarding. You can do the same for a cat that may hiss, growl, or attempt to hide when they hear the dog from another room or from behind a door. You can also attempt to feed both animals their meals or a stream of high-value treats while they are on opposite sides of a closed door. Keep in mind that having the animals this close, even with a door in between, may cause either pet to go over their threshold of tolerance. If this is the case and either pet is showing signs of stress, not eating, or hyper-focused, you should not proceed using this specific method. 
    4. Managed interactions | Once both animals can be near each other in close proximity with no signs of stress, frustration, or increased arousal, you can begin to ease into regular, relaxed routines with the two animals in the same room. In regard to dogs who may have been initially overly interested in the cat, this step can be taken once the dog begins to offer attention to you instead of the cat when the cat is present. It is important to still use as much management as necessary to prevent a dog from being able to chase the cat. You can do this by having the dog drag a leash or tethering the dog to a sturdy piece of furniture near you, offering enrichment like a stuffed Kong (as long as your dog does not have a history of resource guarding and the cat is not likely to confidently approach the dog while engaging in the item). Remember, you don’t want to give your dog the opportunity to chase or rush up to the cat, as the more often they get to practice that behavior, the more desirable and rewarding it becomes. 

    Once you begin to feel confident in your pets’ behavior around each other, you can reduce the amount of physical management like leashes and tethers. Continue to reward both pets for good choices and immediately interrupt any interactions that may lead to high-intensity chases, increased stress, or aggression. If you have a cat who is pestering the dog and the dog is uninterested in interacting, interrupt the interaction as you would with a dog by engaging the cat with a play session or other interactive toys. It is important that the cat always has access to high places, an escape route to exit the room if needed, and a dog-proof sanctuary at all times. Be prepared to manage your pets’ interactions for several weeks, if not longer. Even if things continue to go smoothly, remember that pets should not be left alone together if you are not there to supervise.

    Fighting Like Cats and Dogs?

    If introductions don’t go smoothly, you can contact a certified, force-free trainer for an in-home behavior consultation to help you work through a more personalized introduction process or behavior modification plan. Animals can be injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. It is possible for conflicts between pets in the same family to be resolved over time with professional help. As always, punishment to either animal should be avoided, as it can make matters worse. It is important to remember that all animals are unique with their own personalities, behavior quirks, and histories. Some introduction processes can take weeks or even months depending on the animals. It’s also important to acknowledge that not all animals are compatible with one another and some are unable to live with other pets, especially of a different species. 

    By following the steps detailed above, staying persistent and diligent with your training sessions, and giving both animals plenty of grace and patience, you’re setting everyone in the home up for the best chance at success and most families will see great results!

  • Introducing Cats to Dogs

    Introducing Cats to Dogs

    Bringing a new animal into a home when you already have pets can be exciting, but also potentially stressful on all the animals involved. Whether you are bringing home a new dog and have a resident cat or if you are bringing home a new cat and have a resident dog, it is important to take precautions and perform slow introductions. There are many cats and dogs who live successfully together in homes, but some cats and dogs are unable to coexist successfully due to their individual personalities and dispositions. Unfortunately, dogs and cats can cause significant damage to one another if introductions go wrong, so it’s crucial to do some advanced planning and preparation before they meet.

    Even if the animals have lived with other species and done well in the past, proceed with caution; just like with humans, every individual pairing is different and compatibility will vary. It is always best to have two people present during introductions. If you have more than one cat or dog, be sure to introduce them each to the new pet separately.

    Finding a Good Match

    The first thing that will be important is finding a good match for your resident pet. If you are looking at adding a dog to your home and already have a cat, it may be easier to bring home a younger dog versus an older one, or adopting a dog who has a history of living successfully with other animals. If you want a dog who will be trustworthy around small animals (such as gerbils, guinea pigs, or rabbits), you’re generally better off starting with a puppy and raising them to know appropriate behavior around these species. It is much more challenging to change inappropriate behaviors and associations in an adult dog than it is to create appropriate ones in a young dog. 

    If you have a dog who obsessively barks, growls, lunges, attempts to chase, pin, pick up, or bite at cats, we recommend they live in a cat-free home. If you still decide to bring a cat into your home, you will need to have a management plan in place and proceed with extreme caution. It will also be important that you work one on one with a certified, force-free trainer to ensure everyone’s safety. Likewise, if you have a cat who growls, swats, runs from, or hides from dogs, even after a slow introduction, consider if your cat will really enjoy living with a dog or if it will just increase their stress, which may in turn cause other behavior issues or increase the severity of existing ones.

    If you have a dog who loves to play by chasing things, including small animals, a shy cat who runs away or an energetic cat who runs and pounces may not be the best fit. These cats may trigger the dog to chase, which can lead to escalation of the behavior and potential injuries. A better match for this type of dog would be a calm, confident cat who will not run in fear or play. 

    For homes with elderly or anxious resident pets, it would be best to match them up with a laid-back, calm animal. Energetic and rambunctious pets may bother, hurt, or frighten the other pet. They can also cause more stress, which can also affect an animal’s health and well-being.

    Management

    The first step in the introduction process is management – this means setting up the environment to prevent a certain behavior or interaction before it starts, avoiding situations where either animal is able to do something you don’t want. Good management requires barriers, such as doors and/or baby gates, crates or pens, leashes, and supervision. If you have children who may forget to close doors and gates, or animals who know how to open doors or jump over gates, you will need to be sure to add extra management such as self-closing springs, child-proof latches, or locks. You can also look into acquiring extra tall gates or stacking two existing gates on top of each other vertically. Consider the make-up of the gate itself, as well – gates with cross-hatching grid patterns can become easy climbing walls for small paws, while gates with closely aligned vertical bars are much harder for pets to scale. Having a foolproof management plan will be important. Management will not only keep your pets separated safely during the initial introduction period, but it can also prevent the dog from going into a full chase sequence. Chasing is extremely rewarding to the canine brain and if they get a taste of it initially, they will be more likely to do it again. A dog’s desire to chase something that moves is an innate, hardwired behavior, meaning it does not have to be learned. There are some dogs who are bred for this and therefore have a stronger genetic propensity to practice the behavior. If you have a dog who obsesses over the closed door that a cat is behind, you will need to increase management to keep them far away enough from the door. This might require extra gates blocking off access to hallways leading to the room the cat is in. Cats should also always have high-up places to escape to if needed. Be sure to set up plenty of spots for your cat to retreat to or jump up to where the dog cannot reach them. This cat be a taller cat tree or just strategically arranged furniture that allows the cat to jump, for example, from a couch to a mantel, or a chair back to a ledge. 

    Getting Started

    1. Confinement | It will be important that both pets are kept separate initially. Depending on the individual animals, plan to have them separate for 3-4 days. Confine your new pet in a safe room with the door closed or on a separate floor of the house. This room should provide all essential items for your new pet, like food, water, toys, a litter box (if applicable), and a bed/crate. All essential information for setting your new pet up in your home can be found in our resources on setting your cat up for success and setting your dog up for success. Do not move on to the next step of the introduction process until your new pet is displaying relaxed body language in their safe space.
    2. Swap scents | Get both pets used to each other’s scent. Put down an old t-shirt or towel where your pets sleep for them to lay on. Once their scent is on these items, swap the items and put them in the other pet’s area. Do not set the scented items on the other animal’s sleeping place, simply put it somewhere in the open for the other pet to investigate on their own time. Once both animals are completely comfortable with each other’s scent, you can move to the next step. Remember, the key is to go slow and proceed with caution. 
    3. Structured introductions | After your new animal has decompressed and your resident animal has adjusted to the new change, you can begin initial introductions. The key is to go slow, especially if you do not know how either pet will do with the other species. Initial introductions should be done at a distance and focused on creating positive associations with each other. This means that your pets should not come nose-to-nose right away, and neither of the animals should be let loose into the room with the other one. These introductions may need to be adjusted to better fit what you can execute in your home. Two people will most likely be needed (and is highly recommended) in a majority of cases in order to keep everyone safe and as stress-free as possible. Here are a couple of scenarios that could be executed:
      — Create distance between the two animals by having your cat on one side of a gate and having your dog leashed on the other side. Both animals should be at a distance where they are aware of each other but are not reacting or showing signs of stress by barking, whining, becoming hyper-focused, hissing, spitting, or trying to escape. While both animals are relaxed but aware of each other, begin to feed a steady stream of high-value treats to each of them (this is partly why it’s ideal to have two people involved, so each animal has one human’s full attention). These sessions should be kept short and sweet; after a few minutes, either someone should leave the area with the cat or the dog so they can no longer see each other. As soon as they are no longer in eyesight of each other, the stream of food should stop. If at any point either animal stops eating the food, stop the interaction and try again later with increased distance between the two. Repeat this process several times and give both animals a break between sessions. Over time, you can slowly decrease the distance between the two animals as long are they are both showing relaxed body language and taking the treats. The food is not a distraction, but rather a way to change your pet’s response to one another and build positive associations. For example, instead of thinking “I need to chase,” your dog will start to see the cat and think “I get rewarded!”
      — If you do not have the option to separate the animals using a gate, you can have the cat in a room where they are safely perched on top of a cat tree or other tall surface. Enter the room with the dog on leash (do not close the door) and keep the distance between the two animals as far away as possible. Feed both animals a steady stream of high-value treats. If the cat panics and tries to run, do not force them to stay. They are letting you know they are not ready for this step or this close of an interaction. Quickly get the dog’s attention with a handful of treats, move away from the running cat if possible, and continue to distract them. If the dog is so excited that they refuse high-value treats (ex. cooked chicken, hot dogs, meatballs, etc.), they are also not ready for this step. 
      — If both of these steps are too overwhelming for either of the animals, you can take it a step back and focus on rewarding the cat or dog for moments when they calmly acknowledge the presence of the other. For example, if the dog is in the room with you and hears the cat vocalize or make noise from the other room, immediately offer a high value treat. It is ideal that you are able to give the treat before the dog gets up and goes searching for the source of the noise. Feed multiple treats to keep their attention on you and away from the cat. You are teaching the dog that the presence of the cat means good things (treats) and paying more attention to you – even when the cat is nearby –  is more rewarding. You can do the same for a cat that may hiss, growl, or attempt to hide when they hear the dog from another room or from behind a door. You can also attempt to feed both animals their meals or a stream of high-value treats while they are on opposite sides of a closed door. Keep in mind that having the animals this close, even with a door in between, may cause either pet to go over their threshold of tolerance. If this is the case and either pet is showing signs of stress, not eating, or hyper-focused, you should not proceed using this specific method. 
    4. Managed interactions | Once both animals can be near each other in close proximity with no signs of stress, frustration, or increased arousal, you can begin to ease into regular, relaxed routines with the two animals in the same room. In regard to dogs who may have been initially overly interested in the cat, this step can be taken once the dog begins to offer attention to you instead of the cat when the cat is present. It is important to still use as much management as necessary to prevent a dog from being able to chase the cat. You can do this by having the dog drag a leash or tethering the dog to a sturdy piece of furniture near you, offering enrichment like a stuffed Kong (as long as your dog does not have a history of resource guarding and the cat is not likely to confidently approach the dog while engaging in the item). Remember, you don’t want to give your dog the opportunity to chase or rush up to the cat, as the more often they get to practice that behavior, the more desirable and rewarding it becomes. 

    Once you begin to feel confident in your pets’ behavior around each other, you can reduce the amount of physical management like leashes and tethers. Continue to reward both pets for good choices and immediately interrupt any interactions that may lead to high-intensity chases, increased stress, or aggression. If you have a cat who is pestering the dog and the dog is uninterested in interacting, interrupt the interaction as you would with a dog by engaging the cat with a play session or other interactive toys. It is important that the cat always has access to high places, an escape route to exit the room if needed, and a dog-proof sanctuary at all times. Be prepared to manage your pets’ interactions for several weeks, if not longer. Even if things continue to go smoothly, remember that pets should not be left alone together if you are not there to supervise.

    Fighting Like Cats and Dogs?

    If introductions don’t go smoothly, you can contact a certified, force-free trainer for an in-home behavior consultation to help you work through a more personalized introduction process or behavior modification plan. Animals can be injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. It is possible for conflicts between pets in the same family to be resolved over time with professional help. As always, punishment to either animal should be avoided, as it can make matters worse. It is important to remember that all animals are unique with their own personalities, behavior quirks, and histories. Some introduction processes can take weeks or even months depending on the animals. It’s also important to acknowledge that not all animals are compatible with one another and some are unable to live with other pets, especially of a different species. 

    By following the steps detailed above, staying persistent and diligent with your training sessions, and giving both animals plenty of grace and patience, you’re setting everyone in the home up for the best chance at success and most families will see great results!

  • Toxic Household Products

    Toxic Household Products

    Adapted from the American Animal Hospital Association

    As a pet owner, you want to keep your furry friend safe and healthy, but their curious nature can occasionally get them into trouble. Animals investigate the world with their mouths, and they can ingest poisonous substances accidentally. 

    Pets and Medications

    Even medication that does not require a prescription can be extremely dangerous to your pet. Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories such as ibuprofen and naproxen can cause acute kidney failure and should never be given to pets. Do not try to treat a pet’s medical problem at home without consulting a veterinarian, and never give them medication that is not approved for veterinary use.

    Prescription animal medications often are flavored to increase palatability, so pets may mistake them for treats and eat more than prescribed. Inquisitive pets may even eat pills that aren’t flavored, so keep all medications out of reach. Remember, animals can chew through plastic bottles, so child-proof may not mean pet-proof.

    What foods are toxic to pets?

    Many foods that are safe for people can be deadly to pets and this is not a comprehensive list. Keep the following toxic/dangerous foods away from your dog:

    • Avocado seed
    • Alcohol
    • Caffeinated drinks
    • Cooked bones
    • Chocolate
    • Garlic
    • Grapes and raisins
    • Macadamia nuts
    • Onions
    • Raw yeast dough
    • Xylitol (often found in sugar-free gum and some peanut butter)

    Never leave food where your pet can reach it, and keep pets out of the kitchen when children are eating to prevent them from gobbling up dropped morsels.

    What other household items are dangerous to my pet?

    Products such as paint, glue, and cleaning chemicals often are left out on the assumption that pets won’t eat these bad-smelling/bad-tasting substances, but it’s not worth the risk. Some pets lap up liquids because they have an interesting texture or feel good on the tongue. Household products can contain dangerous chemicals and some glues expand in the stomach, causing a life-threatening blockage.

    Ant baits, bug sprays, and foggers can also be poisonous to your pet. Read labels to ensure proper use of these products and prevent pets from exposure during and after use. Store all insecticides on high shelves out of a pet’s reach.

    Products designed to kill rodents are particularly dangerous to pets, as they may be tempted to eat the tasty bricks, granules, or pellets left out for mice and rats. Rodenticides kill rodents by causing internal bleeding, high calcium levels, brain swelling, or toxic gas production. Never put rat bait out where your pet can find it and keep your pet confined to your yard to prevent him from eating your neighbors’ rodenticides. Find safe, humane solutions to wildlife conflicts. 

    Plants Toxic to Pets

    Plants found in flower beds, vegetable gardens, and indoor planters or arrangements can be toxic to pets. Cats – who particularly like to munch on greenery – are sensitive to many plant types, but dogs can also be at risk. A complete list of toxic and non-toxic plants can be found on ASPCA’s website, but the most common toxic plants include:

    • Aloe
    • Autumn crocus
    • Azalea
    • Begonia
    • Boxwood
    • Burning Bush
    • Creeping Charlie
    • Cyclamen
    • Daffodils
    • Hyacinth
    • Hosta
    • Hydrangeas
    • Kalanchoe
    • Lily of the Valley
    • Lilies
    • Oleander
    • Sage palm
    • Tulips 

    If your pet eats leaves, flowers, or stems, immediately take them and a plant sample to your veterinarian. Although toxicity signs may not be apparent, it is vital to remove poisonous material as soon as possible to prevent toxin absorption in the body.

    Many products used on lawns, gardens, and flower beds can cause toxicity in pets. Fertilizers made from bone or blood meal are tempting to pets and can cause pancreatitis if ingested, or can clump in the intestines or stomach, causing a blockage. Other fertilizers and herbicides applied to lawns also may contain toxic chemicals.

    The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) Animal Poison Control Center is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, to advise pet owners about potential pet toxicities. If you think your pet may have ingested a potentially poisonous substance, call (888) 426-4435. A consultation fee may apply.

  • Touch Sensitivity

    Touch Sensitivity

    Many dogs find human touch to be a positive experience that they will seek out and request. For others, it may not be such a positive experience, especially on specific areas of their bodies that are sensitive to touch or handling. It’s most commonly associated with paws or the collar area, but can be anywhere on the body. This may occur due to a negative experience with that body part being handled in the past, an injury or underlying health concern, or it’s possible that physical touch is new to them if they weren’t handled by humans before. Regardless of the root cause, you can change how your dog feels about touch and handling with time, patience, and a lot of yummy treats. 

    Before beginning, take your touch-sensitive dog to a licensed veterinarian to make sure there is no underlying medical condition. Once your dog has been cleared medically, you can start increasing their comfort with handling using the process below. 

    When modifying any behavior, it is always important to take your time and go at the dog’s pace. Like humans, every dog is an individual and the time it takes for them to become comfortable with handling can vary dramatically. What some dogs achieve in 3 or 4 sessions may take other dogs weeks or even months. This is okay and does not make one dog better than the other. It simply means they are unique living beings with different histories, experiences, and genetics. By respecting your dog’s pace, you’ll be much more successful and you’ll be building trust along the way.

    Management

    Management (setting up your dog’s daily life to prevent the negative reaction) is an important piece of helping them become comfortable with touch. While you are working on changing how they feel about being touched, make sure you do not attempt to touch or grab that part of your dog. It will be much harder to teach your dog to be relaxed and comfortable with touch if those sensitive areas are being handled outside of training sessions. 

    It is common for dogs to be sensitive with their collars/neck and/or paws being handled. If your dog has a sensitivity to their collar being grabbed or touched, do not use their collar to maneuver them around the home or grab their collar to stop them from moving forward. Instead, have your dog drag a short, lightweight leash in the house for you to pick up in case of an emergency so you do not need to reach for their collar. If you typically use their collar to get them off of furniture, into a crate, or any other maneuver, use food or treats to lure them to the desired location instead. If your dog is uncomfortable with their paws being touched but they get wet or muddy, place a plush towel on the floor and lure them with treats in a circle to help dry their feet instead of hand-drying by picking up each paw. It is important that everyone in the dog’s life is aware of the sensitivity and management plan. This will be the first step in reducing your dog’s stress, as they will no longer experience an unexpected touch or unwanted holds to areas where they are sensitive. 

    Tools Needed for Training:

    • Quiet space with no traffic (no other animals or people moving around)
    • High-value treats (before beginning, test out different treat options to see what your dog really likes. Many dogs enjoy tiny pieces of cheese, hot dog, or chicken.)
    • Dog bed or mat
    • Patience 
    • Time

    Choosing When to Train

    It’s important to choose the right time to work on this behavior. The goal is for your dog to remain relaxed, calm, and stress-free throughout the session, so that is how they should start. Plan your training session for when your dog is settled and has had adequate mental and physical exercise earlier in the day. For example, you should not be training right after you get home from work and your dog has been cooped up all day. Your own mental state is equally important, too. You need to be just as relaxed as your dog. If you are feeling rushed or frustrated in another part of your life, do not attempt a training session. Wait until you are both mentally ready. This will be hard work for the two of you, and starting off on a positive note is important. 

    Training Method

    When working with your dog to change how they feel about being handled or touched, we’ll be using two techniques simultaneously: counter-conditioning and desensitization. Counter-conditioning is the method of pairing something positive with something that the dog previously found to be negative or aversive. For example, pairing high-value treats with touching a dog’s paw. Desensitization refers to the slow, step-by-step process of introducing that aversive trigger (touch) slowly over time. By slowly introducing the thing they don’t initially like while pairing it with something positive, you will be changing your dog’s association with the trigger. During this process, you will be using high-value food as the positive/reinforcement for your dog, and the aversive/trigger will be the body part they are currently uncomfortable with you handling. For example, you may be using small pieces of their favorite treat as you work on increasing their comfort level around having their paws touched.

    An important part of your training session is observing your dog’s body language. Before beginning, please review our resources on dog body language so you are comfortable identifying signs of stress or discomfort.

    Step 1: Settle on the mat | Have your dog settle on their mat or bed and reinforce them with high-value treats. If your dog is new to settling on a mat, check out Dog Training by Kikopup on YouTube for a video entitled “How to Train a Settle.” Remember, your goal is a relaxed, calm dog, so begin by rewarding your dog when they are relaxed on the mat. 

    Step 2: Introduce touch | Start by gently and slowly touching or petting your dog in an area they are comfortable with. This could be their back or under their chin, but will vary with every dog. Once you touch that area and your dog remains relaxed and settled, immediately reinforce them with a treat. If your dog gets up or moves, have them settle on the mat again and decrease the intensity of your touch. Once your dog remains relaxed and calm with touch in a spot that you know they’re comfortable with, you can move on to the next step. 

    **If your dog is getting up, moving around, or avoiding touch, there are several possibilities. You may need to practice the mat behavior more before introducing touch. Your dog may have too much energy at that moment. It is also possible your dog has a sensitivity in an area that you were previously unaware of and them moving away is a sign of stress. Use your observation skills to help pinpoint why they chose to move away. Allow your dog to move away and re-engage when they are ready. 

    Step 3: Begin touch in the vicinity of your dog’s known area of sensitivity | Remember, this is a slow process and the goal is to gradually build up to the full trigger over time. This means you will not immediately touch your dog’s sensitive area, but instead, touch close to the trigger zone. For some dogs, going slowly means simply reaching your hand towards them and not touching their body at all in the beginning. When you are able to begin touching your dog, do so gently and slowly to encourage calmness. When the touch is complete, reward them with high-value treats. For example, if your dog is uncomfortable with their paws being touched, start by gently touching their upper leg (elbow/shoulder area). Watch your dog’s body language throughout this process. If you see any sign of stress, stop! Remember, if your dog chooses to get up and walk away at any point, allow them to do so and wait for them to re-engage. Once they do, back up a couple steps and slow down, as your dog walking away can be a sign of you moving too quickly. If you are able to touch and reward while your dog remains relaxed for several sessions in a row, move on to step 4. 

    **When applying touch, it is important to do so in a manner that promotes calmness. When touching your dog, use an open hand, palm down. Touch your dog with gentle, smooth, consistent pressure. Do not ruff up the fur or scratch. Although these may be positive for your dog in other situations, your dog may feel differently when you are touching a sensitive area and it will not encourage them to remain calm and relaxed. 

    Step 4: Increase the touch | Be prepared for this phase to take a long time. During this step, you will slowly get closer to touching your dog’s sensitive area over time and during many sessions. This may take several weeks or months, depending on your dog. Begin by touching them slightly closer to their sensitive area than you did in step 3. Remember, this is meant to be a slow process, so only move a few centimeters closer at a time. Continue to watch your dog’s body language for signs of stress. If you see signs of stress, stop and go back to the last area of touch your dog was comfortable with. Over multiple sessions, you will slowly work your way closer to your dog’s sensitive area until you are able to fully handle/pet/hold the sensitive area and feed treats, all while your dog remains calm and relaxed. Once this happens, move on to the final step.

    Step 5: Practice this behavior in other positions and locations | Now that your dog is completely comfortable with you touching and handling their formerly sensitive area while they are relaxed on their mat, it’s time to practice in new environments. When changing locations, keep the change minimal, such as moving from your living room to the dining room. When you change the context of the behavior, take several steps back in the process. For example, when you move to a different space, begin your touch farther away from the dog’s sensitive area and then build back up to touching the area. This will go much faster than the first time you followed the process, but it is still important to observe your dog’s body language and move at their pace. 

    There are several other ways to help your dog feel more comfortable with touch and handling using force-free training techniques. Above is simply one of the options. A second option is using the bucket game developed by Chirag Patel which allows you to have a “conversation” with your dog. It gives your dog a voice to say “start” and “stop” to handling, touch, or a medical/grooming procedure. You can see this in action by visiting Chirag Patel on YouTube and watching a video entitled “The Bucket Game Introduction” as well as Katie Grillaert’s video called “Cooperative Care: Chirags Bucket Game Step 1.” 

    As mentioned above, this is a slow process and may take several weeks or months to complete. Remember to be patient and go slowly while following your dog’s lead. If at any time throughout this process your dog becomes stiff, growls, lip curls, or shows any level of aggression, stop what you are doing and contact a dog training professional who is knowledgeable and committed to using force-free techniques for behavior modification. If you have additional questions, contact the Wisconsin Humane Society behavior department at behavior@wihumane.org or 414-431-6173 

  • Setting Your New Dog up for Success

    Setting Your New Dog up for Success

    Congratulations on adding a new member to your family! Bringing home a new dog is an exciting time for everyone in the home, but it can also be stressful for the pup. Consider the number of changes that have occurred in the dog’s life leading up to them entering your home; some dogs arrived as strays while others were recently uprooted from their previous lives before meeting you. It’s very common for them to need time, patience, and reassurance as they learn the ropes and adjust to this entirely new world they’re in.

    It is important to prepare your home and family members to set your dog up for success and a minimally stressful transition. 

    Recommended Supplies:

    • Food
    • Toys
    • Food/water dishes
    • Bed
    • Crate/dog-proof space
    • Leash
    • Collar
    • Enrichment items – Kongs, treat dispensing toys, snuffle mat, etc.

    Decompression time

    It’s crucial to give your dog time to decompress when first bringing them home. During this time, the dog is recovering from the stress of all the changes that have happened in their life and adjusting to their new home. Depending on the individual dog, their decompression time will vary. Allow several days to a few weeks for your dog to settle in. During these first few days or weeks, continue your dog’s new routine, keep home life calm and quiet, and provide mental and physical exercise. If there are other animals in the home, give your new dog and resident animals time to adjust before performing slow introductions. Though this is an exciting time for you and you may want to show your dog off to everyone, please refrain from doing so. You should not introduce your dog to new people, other family members outside of the household, nor friends in those first few days. You should also avoid taking your dog on unnecessary outings, such as the pet store or other busy environments. After your dog is given the opportunity to decompress, you can slowly begin introducing them to other resident animals and people outside of your family, and taking them on appropriate outings. Remember to always go slowly and watch your dog’s body language throughout all interactions and experiences for signs of stress. Below are guidelines on how to prepare your home and family for your new dog and provide your new dog with proper decompression time. 

    Preparing for Your New Dog Before They Arrive

    By preparing for your dog before they arrive, you will make the transition into your home less stressful for everyone involved, especially the dog.

    The first step to preparing your home is setting up a safe space for your dog. This ideally will be a small, low-traffic, dog-proof room with a door. This room will serve as a space for your dog to stay when you are gone, as well as a comforting space for them to access if they want time away from the activity in the house. Many dogs will benefit from crate training and a crate can be placed in this room for confinement. This space should have all your dog’s needs met, including water, toys, food (during feeding times), toys, a bed, and enrichment items. This room is a safe space for your dog to spend time and decompress. This will be exceptionally important for fearful dogs or when bringing a dog into a multi-dog household where keeping two dogs physically separate will be necessary. 

    In addition to setting up your new dog’s safe space, it is also important to dog-proof your house. This includes routinely picking up items left on the floor, such a clothing, shoes, toys, or anything else that you do not want your dog to chew. Any edible items on counter tops should be placed into drawers or cabinets, and you should clear any breakable items off of low surfaces such as coffee tables or book shelves. Determine if and where gates or barriers may be beneficial to limit your dog’s access when in the home. For example, blocking access to stairs or into a playroom where toys are unlikely to be picked up consistently. 

    Another important aspect of dog guardianship is communication with your dog. Dogs communicate through body language, and understanding their physical cues will drastically improve your ability to support their needs. Even with history from a previous home or foster family, behavior changes in new environments and in response to new stimuli. Watching your dog’s body language during new encounters or introductions will allow you to feel confident in knowing if your dog is comfortable or if they are showing signs of stress and need a break from the interaction. See our resource on dog body language for more information.

    Plan Mental and Physical Enrichment

    Two important pieces of a dog’s daily life are mental and physical enrichment. Planning ahead on how you will provide your dog with both of these will help for a smooth transition. Mental enrichment items that encourage your dog to settle by engaging in calming, natural behavior (ex. frozen, stuffed Kongs) are a useful tool in helping them destress and relax. See our resource on enriching your dog’s life for details and ideas. 

    Before bringing your dog home, have several enrichment items ready to go. For example, stuff several Kongs with a variety treats or dog-safe foods (ex. peanut butter, canned dog food, pumpkin, plain yogurt, etc.). This will allow you to provide your dog with an enrichment item right away when they arrive at your home, creating a more relaxing environment with which they’ll associate positive things. 

    “Decompression walks” are a great tool allow your dog to stretch their legs and exercise their brains while engaging in natural behaviors. These walks are different than your average walk, as they are done using a long line, and in an environment where the dog is safe to choose where they go and explore the environment with their nose. See our resource on decompression walks for more information.

    The Drive Home

    When transporting your dog home, they should be secured in your car. This could mean using a crate or a doggy seat belt. If children are present, they should not be in the back seat alone with the dog. The dog may not be comfortable in a car and may be stressed or anxious with all the changes that have happened in their life. For this reason, it is important that a child is not next to the dog nor trying to hold or restrain the dog. 

    Arriving Home

    All family members should be calm, speak softly, and remain low key during the dog’s arrival and throughout the first few days. This is an exciting time and we understandably want to spend lots of time engaging with our new arrival, but it is important to allow them time to decompress and adjust to their new home with minimal noise, activity, and chaos. This means giving your dog ample time to relax and adjust to the home before showing them off to family, friends, and other animals. Again, this decompression time can vary from days to weeks depending on your dog. 

    Upon arriving home, take your dog to a potty area to see if they need to relieve themselves. Allow them to sniff the environment and move around the area at their own pace. Even if your dog does relieve themselves during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells, and new sounds can throw even the most diligently housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case. See our resource on housetraining for details on that process. 

    Once your dog has had a chance to go potty, allow them to explore the yard on a loose leash, leaving slack as much as possible to avoid creating any tension, then move indoors to do the same inside the home. If there are other animals in the home, keep them in a secure space during this process. See our introduction resources for more information on introducing your dog to other animals in the home. Remember, it is important to allow your new dog and resident animals both time to decompress and adjust to the new changes before performing slow introductions. Be sure to have gates in place and selected doors closed during this first walk through. After your dog settles in, you can allow access to more of your home. This could take days to weeks depending on your dog’s comfort level. If your dog is showing signs of stress or discomfort, move them directly into their safe space. Give them a high-value enrichment item and time to decompress. This will begin to build up their association with the safe space as a place for them to settle. Some dogs will prefer to be entirely alone, while others will benefit from you sitting quietly in the room with them while they engage with their enrichment item. Bring a book or headphones to occupy you, and resist the urge to watch your dog; stay focused on your own “enrichment item” and only engage with them if they approach you, keeping even those interactions very minimal and subdued. For the especially shy animals, we may be tempted to express our excitement when they finally approach, but it’s important to stay still and quiet, let them sniff you, and only pet them if they settle in next to you or nudge you for attention. Follow your dog’s body language. 

    Even beyond the initial arrival period, always give your dog the choice of whether or not to interact with humans or other animals. If your dog is not approaching or soliciting attention, do not approach them to pet or interact and stop others from doing so. Giving dogs choices of who, when, and how they interact decreases their stress and creates positive relationships. 

    Starting a Routine

    Your new dog has experienced many changes, and setting up a routine will help to make life more predictable and therefore decrease their stress level. When considering your schedule, plan out their mealtimes, bathroom breaks, mental enrichment, and daily physical exercise. Keeping the routine consistent, especially during the first few weeks, is very important. This allows your dog to start predicting what will happen each day, automatically reducing their confusion and giving them the comfort of knowing what comes next.

    Using Your Dog’s Safe Space

    During the first few days, the amount of time your dog will spend in their safe space depends on the individual dog’s comfort and the events occurring in the home. The goal is for them to enjoy this space and build lots of positive associations with it. You can work towards this by giving them enrichment items in the space and slowly leaving them in there for longer periods. If the dog is showing signs of stress, slow down your process. This space should not be a place utilized for punishment nor should you only utilize it when they’re left alone for long stretches of time; again, they should find this place comforting and fun, not somewhere they are bored, stressed, or scared. Throughout your dog’s life, this safe space will be a useful management tool, such as during parties and gatherings, or when you bring home another animal down the road and temporary separation is necessary. If you choose to utilize a crate, see our crate training resource for details on that process.

    Introductions 

    Introducing your new dog to other animals and people is an important step, and one that requires prior planning and patience. Remember, behavior changes in new environments and with new stimuli. Your dog may have a history of being successful living with other dogs, kids, cats, etc., but it is still important that you follow a slow introduction process, as your dog may react differently to every new interaction. See our resources on new pet introductions for details on the process. 

    Training

    Training is an important aspect of a dog’s life. We ask dogs to adapt to living in our homes and follow our rules, but these rules are completely arbitrary to them and usually outside of the scope of natural canine behavior. It is important to tell dogs what we would like them to do and not get upset if they don’t act as we expect them to. 

    By training your dog, you are showing them what behaviors you want them to do and providing reinforcement for those behaviors. This not only sets the dog up for success in your home, but also helps to build a positive relationship between the two of you. In addition to teaching helpful behaviors for everyday life, teaching your dog new skills will also stimulate their brain and provide additional mental enrichment. It is important that training does not start until your dog has decompressed and adjusted to your home. Give them a chance to return to a calm state before teaching them new cues and skills. 

    Check out our training classes and resources offered at the Wisconsin Humane Society. Stay patient, persistent, and enjoy the ride – they’ll adjust before you know it! 

  • Puppy Socialization

    Puppy Socialization

    Bringing home a new puppy is incredibly exciting – and a lot of work! It’s important to have a plan in place for how you will raise them, so it’s best to start your research before you even take your new addition home. While dogs learn and make new associations throughout their lives, the critical period for socialization narrows at 12 weeks old and ends sometime between 12 and 18 weeks of age. Since puppies generally do not go to their new homes until they are 8 weeks old (or older), it is important for families to start their socialization plan from the moment the puppy arrives. 

    Vaccinations and Disease-risk During Early Socialization

    Per the recommendation of the American Veterinary Medical Association, puppies who have had at least one vaccination and continue to follow an age-appropriate vaccination schedule can safely attend puppy classes and have other safe socialization experiences. We do not recommend that puppy owners wait until their vaccination schedule is fully complete before beginning socialization. The minimal risk of infection is far less concerning than the massive risk of your puppy developing serious behavior concerns due to a lack of socialization. 

    The Complexity of Socialization

    Many people think that socialization is as simple as exposing their puppies to as many new dogs and people as they can during puppyhood. It is, unfortunately, not that simple. Appropriate socialization requires careful structure and support so that your puppy does not become overwhelmed or afraid. During this sensitive time, puppies are as vulnerable to negative experiences as they are to positive ones. It is also important that you not just socialize your puppy to people and dogs, but also to sights, sounds, textures, and different types of handling. As you are developing your puppy socialization plan, it will be important to be aware of their body language so that you can be sure to support them most effectively.

    Quality vs. Quantity

    While it is absolutely important that your puppy has a lot of socialization experiences, it is far more important that they are quality experiences, rather than focusing strictly on the quantity. If you expose your puppy to children and those children frighten and overwhelm them, your puppy is not being socialized to children. Rather, they are learning that children are frightening and overwhelming. Instead, your puppy would benefit from meeting one quiet, polite child at a time who they can greet and approach on their own terms, rather than that child approaching them. Be sure to be thoughtful about how you are going to set your puppy up for success with each new experience. In the beginning, be sure that the experiences are quiet and relaxed, and that you maintain distance from whatever it is that you are exposing them to. If they are successful, you can progress to a more complex interaction. 

    Goal Setting

    It is important to consider what your goals are for your puppy when creating your socialization plan. There are a few things that they will experience in everyday life, such as going to the vet, interacting with visitors entering your home, going for car rides, etc. These are things that you will have to practice with your puppy. Depending on your lifestyle and environment, there may be goals that are necessary to set outside of that, too. Do you want your puppy to go camping with you? Ride in a canoe or kayak? Accompany you to a beer garden? Join you for picnics? Attend your child’s softball games? It is important to consider all of your goals for your puppy and plan to work with them in all of the spaces that you want them to be successful in as adults. 

    When you consider your socialization plan, be sure to work on acclimating your puppy to sounds, sights, spaces, objects, people, dogs, and other animals as separate projects. If you start with the “full picture” all at once, you risk overwhelming your puppy. Instead, break down each experience into their separate pieces. 

    EXAMPLE: You have the goal of taking your puppy on family picnics in the summertime. Rather than taking your young dog to their first picnic and being frustrated when they pull on leash, jump on the table, bark at passing people, and are unable to settle, consider all of the skills that they will need to be successful and practice them separately. Go to your local park when there are no people and dogs around and let them sniff, explore, and acclimate to the space. Bring along a filled Kong and a blanket and sit under a tree with your puppy. Let them work on the Kong (which promotes relaxation and helps to build positive associations) and when they finish, take them home. Then create separate training plans to teach them manners around food, not jumping, loose-leash walking, and settling in the presence of people and other dogs. 

    The Role of Food

    Food consumption promotes relaxation and can be used to help your puppy build positive associations with novel experiences. You should always bring a treat pouch full of high-value food with you when you take your puppy out into the world. You can offer your puppy a treat when they have new experiences to make that stimuli even more positive and impactful. Be sure to allow your puppy to acknowledge the sights, sounds, etc. that they are experiencing before you begin to feed them. Feed them a few treats and then pause. What does your puppy do? If they are showing relaxed body language, continue walking past that thing. If they are showing signs of stress, move a few feet further away and offer them a few more pieces of food. If your puppy is interested in investigating a safe, stationary object, allow them to do so, moving closer or further away as they choose. 

    Socialization to Sounds

    There are many sounds that are important to socialize your puppy to. Some that we would suggest would be the sound of thunderstorms, loud traffic, motorcycles, fireworks, children playing, people talking loudly, dogs barking, vacuums, construction, knocking, your doorbell, and any other sound that you can think of that your puppy may need to be comfortable with. The idea is to work daily to teach them that novel sounds are merely background noise and to feel relaxed when they hear them. 

    You can find sound clips on YouTube and save them to an album for this training. You can also download the Sound Proof Puppy App on your phone for this work. In the beginning, be sure to have high-value treats, such as small pieces of cheese or hot dogs. Play the sound at the quietest volume possible and feed your puppy constantly. When the sound stops, the food should stop. If your puppy cannot eat, that means they are too stressed or the food is not incentivizing enough. Try a higher-value reinforcer or play the sound at a quieter volume. In the beginning, this session should be less than a minute long, but can be practiced multiple times per day. Do not progress unless your puppy is showing relaxed body language.

    If your puppy is relaxed and interested in the food, you can start to progress with these exercises. Begin to play the sound for longer periods of time at higher volumes; this should be a slow progression. If, at any point, your puppy begins to show signs of stress and fear, the volume needs to be set to a quieter level and the sessions need to be shorter. You can have the goal of eventually playing these sounds while your puppy works on a filled Kong or eats their meals. These sessions should be short and highly reinforcing for your puppy. Ideally, this should be practiced at least once per day. 

    Socialization to Sights/Spaces 

    As discussed, when acclimating your puppy to your local park, if you have the goal of taking your puppy to picnics, you will need to give your puppy the opportunity to experience the spaces that you want them to be successful in without the pressure of interacting with people or other animals. Several times per week, take your puppy to a new space to explore. This might be the parking lot of your veterinarian, local pet store, a family member’s house, your local park, the building that you intend to take training classes in, or other dog-friendly stores. 

    The first time that you visit these spaces, politely ask people to give your puppy space so that they can investigate the environment without the added pressure of social interactions. You can find a variety of dog vests, harnesses, leashes, or bandanas that simply say “in training” which may help. As your puppy is exploring the space, you can periodically offer them a high-value treat, especially if they choose to interact with something particularly challenging or new. If your puppy is fearful, you will need to move further away from that space, person, animal, or object. If your puppy is still showing signs of fear and stress after increasing distance, you should leave and attempt to revisit the space a different day at a much further distance and at a slower pace. 

    Regardless of your puppy’s response, this is not the time to ask them for behaviors such as “sit” or “down.” The goal is to teach your puppy to feel relaxed and confident in the presence of new things, so avoid the temptation to guide their behavior. Rather, allow them the opportunity to absorb their environment and access reinforcement, and focus on cued behaviors in novel environments later in the process. Once your puppy can confidently enter new spaces consistently, you can begin to also ask for directed behaviors. 

    Socialization to Objects/Surfaces

    Everything that your puppy is interacting with is novel and strange, and they will need support to learn to be physically confident. Each day, give your puppy the opportunity to explore new objects and surfaces in a positive way. One example: put your puppy in another room, lay the broom and vacuum flat on the ground (so that there is no risk of it falling on them), scatter treats or kibble all around them, let your puppy into the room, and stand back. Let your puppy decide how close they choose to get to the object without any social pressure. For puppies who readily and enthusiastically eat their kibble, this is a great way to provide enrichment while you feed their meals. Every day, place different objects on the floor and scatter their meal around it. These objects could be a sturdy step stool that will not tip, a ladder flat on the ground, a plastic tarp, a tunnel, a cardboard box, pots and pans, or any other novel, safe object that you can think of. The goal will be for your puppy to see new objects as an opportunity for reinforcement rather than something to be concerned about. 

    Socialization to People 

    Your approach to socialization with people will be dependent on your individual puppy. If your puppy tends to show more fearful behaviors in new environments and with new people, it will be important to direct people to give your puppy space. They can toss your puppy treats from a few feet away (they should not hand them to your puppy) and not pet your puppy unless the pup approaches and actively solicits attention by climbing into their laps or nudging their hands. Keep in mind that many fearful puppies may approach to tentatively sniff and gather information; if they inch closer but maintain a stretched-out body posture and do not nudge the person for petting, the human should not reach out their hand to pet the puppy. 

    If your puppy is exuberant and very excited to interact with people, you will have a slightly different approach. Remember, although your puppy garners a lot of attention at this age, fewer people will be interested in interacting with them as they mature and grow larger. It is important that you not build the expectation that your dog will interact with every person they see. You should regularly and politely tell people who approach, “sorry, we’re training,” and not allow them to pet your puppy. While they pass by, you should drop high-value treats on the ground. This way, your puppy will learn that whenever people pass by, there is a reason to give you attention rather than becoming frustrated about the lack of opportunity to greet everyone they see. 

    When you do allow your puppy to greet people, be sure to stop them before they fully approach and let the person know what you will need them to do. Ask them to crouch down so that your puppy can access them without having to jump up. If they do jump up, the person should calmly stand up and walk away. You can make keeping their feet on the ground even more attractive by intermittently scattering treats on the ground for your puppy as they interact with the person. 

    Socialization to Dogs

    As with all aspects of socialization, it will be important to work slowly and thoughtfully in the beginning with your puppy. Overwhelming them with boisterous dogs (or groups of dogs) will not be beneficial. Instead, be sure that the first few dogs they meet are social, stable, and not overly exuberant. If the first few introductions with dogs go well, you can begin to expose your puppy to a wider array of energy levels. Be sure that your puppy meets a lot of different types of dogs, too (i.e. very small, very large, coated, smooth-haired, etc.). See our resource on dog-to-dog introductions for more information on appropriately introducing dogs to each other. 

    Meeting a dog does not necessarily mean that they physically interact with them. For some interactions, seeing the dog at a distance while the puppy eats treats will be the most appropriate way for your pup to learn about them. The dog park is NOT an appropriate place to take your young puppy. In this environment, they may become overwhelmed, injured, or learn inappropriate play styles. In general, it is not recommended that puppies greet unknown dogs on leash. Instead, politely avoid unknown dogs on leash while you feed your puppy high-value treats. 

    While play is wonderful, the goal of socializing your puppy does not need to be that they actively play with other dogs in all circumstances. Socialization with other dogs should include seeing dogs at a distance that you do not greet, passing by dogs who you do not greet, calmly sharing space with dogs, and generally being non-reactive to dogs. 

    Socialization to Other Animals

    If your dog will be interacting with animals other than dogs, it will be important to acclimate them to those animals, as well. Even if they will not be routinely around them, take advantage of any opportunity you can to have your puppy experience sharing space with other animals while they are young. If you have friends with larger animals on farms, ask them if you can bring your puppy, stay several feet outside of the fence line, and feed your puppy treats. You can do the same with cats, chickens, rabbits, etc. Help your puppy understand that when they see other animals, they should stay relaxed and look to you for direction and reinforcement. 

    A Note About Fear Behaviors

    If you are seeing significant fear behaviors in your dog (including but not limited to barking, growling, lunging, resource guarding, running, and hiding in fear) you will need to seek out a higher level of support in the form of a force-free professional trainer. It is normal for puppies to be afraid of things here and there – that’s a part of learning and development. If you notice that your puppy is consistently fearful or reactive, however, seek out support immediately. If you are uncertain about whether or not you and your puppy need additional support, you can reach out to the Wisconsin Humane Society Behavior Tip Line at 414-431-6173. 

    After 16 Weeks

    Though your puppy’s socialization period technically ends after 16 weeks, your work is not done. Your puppy will reach physical maturity between 12 and 18 months, but will not reach emotional maturity until they are between 2 and 4 years of age. They will still need thoughtful, supportive opportunities to interact with people, animals, places, and spaces well into adulthood or the behaviors that you have worked so hard to develop will disappear. 

    Additional Resources:

    Dos and Don’ts when Socializing

    Do remember that socialization includes safe, positive, and careful exposure to novel sights, sounds, surfaces, handling, people, and other animals.  

    Do start slow. Introduce them to one polite child in a space that is quiet and calm. Introduce them to one polite, social dog who will not overwhelm them. Take them to the parking lot of the pet store during a quiet time and feed them treats in the car, then take them home. If, at each level, they are comfortable and successful, you can increase the amount of stimulation that you are asking them to cope with. 

    Do support your puppy when they are nervous. There is no need to panic, but you can absolutely comfort them, feed them treats, and remove them from the situation that is making them nervous. 

    Do make your puppy your priority. During this critical period, your puppy (and their comfort) should be your focus when you are out in the world with them. Unable to focus on your puppy? No problem, just leave them home for that particular outing.  

    Do set expectations. Before you allow novel people to interact with your puppy, communicate exactly what you expect of them. Is your puppy nervous of new people? Be sure that they understand that their job is to toss treats and that they may not attempt to pet your puppy. Is your puppy incredibly exuberant? Let them know that if they jump on them to calmly stop petting, turn their back, and wait for further instruction.  

    Do introduce novelty. Lay your broom, vacuum, an umbrella, a baking sheet, or other safe household items on the floor in your home and scatter food all around them. Step back and let your puppy explore at their own pace. It is important to teach our puppies that they have the ability to interact safely with new items and that we will not force them. The same approach can be taken with the scale at the vet clinic, sets of stairs, and other objects that our young, uncoordinated puppies can safely engage with.  

    —

    Don’t use your leash to hold your puppy in place or hold them in your arms to let people pet them. It is incredibly important that your puppy have the option to NOT engage with people if they choose to.  

    Don’t let people hand treats directly to your puppy if they are nervous (tossing treats from a distance is fine!). 

    Don’t pull your puppy towards or carry them up to a person, dog, space, or object that they are nervous of.  

    Don’t force handling on your puppy. If your puppy is struggling or nervous when you touch their feet, ears, faces, or any other body part, it is a sign that you need to move more slowly. Try spreading cream cheese or peanut butter on a spoon. While one family member holds the spoon (as long as your puppy is licking the spoon) you can gently and slowly begin to acclimate your puppy to physical handling.  

    Don’t take your puppy out for a full day of adventures without breaks. Puppies tire easily and we have to be careful not to overwhelm them. Be sure that their socialization adventures are broken up with crate breaks, the opportunity to chew, and time to nap and rest.  

    Don’t wait! Make the most of the early months and be sure to give your puppy at least three novel experiences every day. These can be easy, quick sessions (i.e. play a thunderstorm recording at a very low volume while feeding your puppy treats, have one visitor come over to interact with your puppy and walk them in one new space and allow them to sniff and explore).  

  • Mouthiness in Dogs

    Mouthiness in Dogs

    Ages 6 months and up

    Sometimes miscategorized as biting, “mouthing” is when a dog will put their mouth on someone’s skin, clothes, or shoes with varying pressure, typically when they’re frustrated, excited, or seeking attention. While mouthiness can escalate, especially if left unaddressed over time, it typically does not lead to injury or intentional harm. Adolescent and adult dogs who are mouthy tend to also be social, energetic, playful, and outgoing dogs. Thankfully, there are several things you can do to modify and manage mouthy behavior so your pup can better understand what appropriate play looks like. 

    PLEASE NOTE: The majority of dogs showing this behavior do so in a social, attention-seeking manner with loose, wiggly bodies. If a dog starts mouthing with a stiff body and does so in a way that begins to control your movements and/or limits your choices to move away, this is not social play behavior. Instead, this is a way of your dog attempting to control their environment; you should stop what you are doing and contact a certified, force-free, professional trainer for additional support. If this sounds like your dog, some of the techniques listed below could escalate your dog’s reaction since they are typically exhibited towards anyone who tries to passively or actively control the behavior. A trainer can build a custom plan for you to help manage the behavior in a safe way. 

    DO NOT practice any aversive suggestions, such as holding your dog’s mouth closed or rolling your dog on their back and holding them down (referred to as an “alpha roll”). Yelling, hitting, or other physical punishment should also never be used. These methods risk damaging your relationship with your dog and can result in new behavior problems or an escalation of the current behavior.

    Potential Causes for Mouthiness:

    • Singleton puppies and puppies who have been removed from their litter too early (earlier than 8 weeks) may be more prone to mouthing as they mature. Without siblings around to let them know they are biting too hard, it’s harder for them to develop good bite-inhibition. 
    • The dog may have been reinforced for this behavior unintentionally.
    • The dog may not be getting enough physical exercise, leaving them with excess energy and resulting in using their mouths during playtime. 
    • The dog may not be getting enough mental stimulation. When you add boredom to excess energy, you have a dog looking for something to do and they discover they can engage you in play by using their mouths. 

    Management

    Everyone who interacts with your dog should consistently follow all management rules. This includes family members and visitors. People coming and going in the home can be very exciting and may trigger mouthing, and anyone who lets it happen is unintentionally telling the dog that this behavior is ok. Management is especially important when children or less mobile individuals are involved. 

    • Keep your dog on leash, tethered to a sturdy piece of furniture in the room, or behind a barrier (ex. baby gate) to prevent mouthing at common problem times, such as when visitors arrive, or the environment becomes too exciting or stressful for your dog. 
    • When you return home after an absence, plan for a game of fetch or another activity that will burn some energy before trying to pet them.
    • Keep treats near the front door and around the house so they’re readily available to toss on the ground when your dog may become excited. The treats should ideally be tossed prior to them jumping up and mouthing, and are intended to redirect their attention to something more desirable.
    • Avoid any rough-housing, pushing, or shoving games with your dog. These activities can encourage your dog to use their mouth in inappropriate ways. Instead, engage in non-contact games like fetch or Tug-O-War. 
      Before playing Tug-O-War with your dog, make you’ve taught them the cues “tug” and “trade” or “drop.” If at any time the dog begins to put their mouth on your skin, calmly end the game and remove yourself from the situation to give your dog a brief break from the excitement. Playing tug with your dog does not make dogs aggressive nor cause dominant behavior; you do not always have to win.
    • Redirect your dog to a more appropriate item, such as a toy. When your dog’s mouth is on the toy, reward them with lots of praise and attention. Keep a stash of plush toys and chews around the house and try to determine the triggers of your dog’s mouthing so you can offer them an appropriate item before they have a chance to mouth you.
    • Always supervise children with dogs, especially when they are mouthy. Young children commonly react to being mouthed by screaming, running away, crying, or otherwise responding in a way that may excite the dog even more and increase their arousal. If mouthing does occur, an adult should be present to redirect the behavior and children should end the interaction by exiting the area. If a dog is persistently mouthy with children, it is best to keep them separated in the home while working on these behaviors. Your dog can be separated in the home by using baby gates, crates, or being put in separate rooms with enrichment.
    • Increase the amount of exercise your dog is getting. You can exercise your dog for several short sessions throughout the day or a little longer during their current play session. This will help them expend energy in an appropriate way and allow them to spend more time with you. 
    • Provide your dog with interactive toys and encourage them to work as a form of enrichment. Examples of interactive toys include Kongs, food puzzles, and treat-dispensing toys. You can rotate these toys on a regular basis to keep them interesting and novel to your pup. 
    • Bitter Apple is a product that can be sprayed on human hands, feet, or clothing. It’s designed to taste bad and thus discourage the dog from putting their mouth on that object. NEVER spray bitter apple directly in the dog’s mouth! Bitter Apple can be purchased from the retail store at the Wisconsin Humane Society and 100% of proceeds benefit the animals in our care.

    Training

    The management tips above can help prevent you from reinforcing the behavior and reduce the likelihood of it occurring, but you may also want to train new behaviors to take the place of mouthing. Training will decrease the need for constant management and will help build a positive relationship between you and your dog. Most importantly, be sure to always reward your dog for desirable behavior to increase the likelihood of it reoccurring in the future.

    • To decrease unwanted behavior, one option is a “time out” or break. This is the removal of something the dog wants (ex. your attention) after they engage in an undesirable behavior. 
      If your dog places their mouth on you during play (or any time you are interacting with them), calmly leave the interaction for about 30 seconds. When your dog has calmed down,  return to the room. If your dog puts their mouth on you again, leave again, this time for 1 minute. Continue this, increasing the length of time you stay away as many times as necessary until you can return to the interaction without your dog putting their mouth on you. When your dog does not put their mouth on you or offers more desirable behaviors, like sitting, make sure to reward them for that.  
    • Teach your dog an incompatible behavior. This is any task that physically cannot happen while they’re mouthing you. For example, the cues “sit/stay” or “down/stay” can be effective because they aren’t able to jump up and mouth at you while they are sitting or lying on their mat (or towel, blanket, bed, etc.).
    • If mouthing occurs when people enter the home, cue your dog to “sit” and reward them before they can jump up and mouth. It is important that you are reinforcing “sit” frequently and in all situations. This ensures your dog will put their bottom on the floor when they hear the word “sit” and it will be automatic in different environments and at different distraction levels without requiring additional prompts or lures.
    • Take your dog to a manners class. Even if your dog attended a puppy class, a manners class can be a great refresher and can help re-establish appropriate boundaries. The Wisconsin Humane Society offers a Manners Class specifically for dogs 6 months and older. 

    Additional Resources