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Setting Your New Cat Up for Success
Congratulations on the new addition to your family! Although bringing home a new cat is an exciting time for us humans, the big move can be stressful for your new companion. Transitions are generally stressful for cats, but taking a few extra steps will help the transition go as smoothly as possible. Although it was likely love at first sight for you when meeting your new cat, it may take them a little longer to adjust to the new humans in their life, while also acclimating to an entirely new environment.

Preparing for your new cat

to allow a safer and stress-free transition, it is important to acquire and set up their supplies before you bring the cat home.

Supplies:
- Cat food
- Food/water bowls
- Litter boxes (2), litter, and scoop
- Toys
- Scratching post or cat climber
Setting up a dedicated room for your cat

Before bringing your cat home, it is important to set up a specific room where you can isolate your cat when they first arrive. Every cat handles change and transitions differently. Knowing that change is generally stressful for cats, it is important to set them up for success and allow them ample time to decompress and slowly adjust to their new environment. This is why you must set your cat up in a single room for their first several days after arriving home.

When selecting a room, choose a quiet, low-traffic area. This could be a spare bedroom, office, or bathroom. Your cat will spend their first week or two (depending on the cat) in this room, so there needs to be space for all their necessities. Ensure they have a litter box (ideally two boxes, if space allows), food, water, toys, and a hiding place. The hiding place could be the carrier you bring them home in, a cardboard box with a blanket inside and draped over the top, or a cat den purchased from a pet supply store. When cats are fearful, they will choose to hide. It is likely that with all the changes your cat has experienced, they will initially be fearful or shy at first. It is important to provide them a comfy place to hide while they scope out their new home and decompress from all the changes. If you have other animals in the home, use a towel or small blanket to block the crack under the door to your new cat’s room. If not blocked, this small crack could allow premature interactions before your animals are ready to get to know each other.

Cat proof your home

Similar to child-proofing, it is important to ensure that your home is safe for a cat. Cats, especially kittens, are curious creatures, capable of jumping onto high surfaces or squeezing into the smallest of spaces. Cat-proofing your house will protect your cat in their new environment and safeguard your belongings. Below are some tips to prevent injuries and accidents.

General Recommendations:
- Place dangling wires from lamps, electronics, blinds, and phones out of reach or in cord protectors
- Don’t leave knick-knacks or breakable items accessible on shelves/tables.
- Make sure all heating/air vents are covered and that all screens and windows are secure.
- Don’t leave burning candles unattended
- Make sure they haven’t jumped into the washer/dryer before you turn it on or close the lid
- Some houseplants can be poisonous, see the Poisonous Plant Handout for reference
Kitchens/Bathrooms:
- Use childproof latches to keep your cat from prying open cabinets
- Keep trash cans covered or inside a latched cabinet
- Keep medications, cleaners, chemicals, and laundry supplies in a safe place
- Keep food out of reach (even if the food isn’t harmful, the wrapper could be)
Bedrooms:
- Keep laundry and shoes behind closed doors (drawstrings and buttons can cause major problems if chewed and ingested)
- Keep any medications, lotions, or cosmetics off bedside tables or dressers
- Be careful that you don’t close your kitten in closets or dresser drawers
Garage: To a cat, any open door is another area to explore. The best way to protect the cats is to never let them into the garage at all.

Bringing home your cat

Transport your cat home in a safe, secure carrier with some soft bedding inside. Drape a blanket or towel over the carrier to reduce your cat’s stress during the ride. When you arrive home, take the carrier with your cat inside directly into the pre-set-up room. Place the carrier on the floor, open the door, and leave the room. Make sure the carrier door is unable to swing shut. You may need to place a small weighted object in front of it or remove the door completely. You don’t want your cat trapped inside without access to food, water, or their litter box. Allow your cat to exit the carrier whenever they choose. The carrier will have their scent in it and will be the most familiar part of the room, so it’s important to leave it for easy access when they need their “safe space.”. If you provided your cat another hiding place in the room besides the carrier, you can place the blanket or towel from the carrier in the hiding place you provided after the cat leaves the carrier on their own. This will encourage the cat to use the den you provided and make it smell familiar.

Introducing your cat to the home

Keep your cat isolated in the single room until they are ready to explore the rest of the home. This could be a couple days to weeks or even months depending on the individual cat. If there are other animals in the home, see handouts on cat-cat and cat-dog introductions to guide you through that process, which will impact how long your cat is isolated for. While your cat adjusts to their room, visit them regularly throughout the day and spend time with them in their room. Everything your cat experiences will be novel to them and could cause stress, so it is important to allow your cat to adjust at their own pace. To help your cat build a positive association with you and their new home, bring high value treats or small snacks of canned cat food whenever you go into their room so they start to associate you with yummy treats and begin to look forward to your visits. Your cat may also enjoy engaging with toys, and a play session is another great way to build a positive relationship with your cat. If your cat is especially fearful, we have lots of helpful tips in our Caring for a Fearful Cat handout.

If your cat is eating, drinking, and using the litterbox regularly, they are likely ready to begin exploring more of your home. When you enter their room, they should show relaxed body language, move around the room comfortably, and choose to interact with you. See cat body language handout. Once you see these behaviors, you can begin to allow your cat access to more of your home. Take your time introducing your cat to the rest of your home by only allowing access to an additional room or two at a time. Close doors or set up baby gates to only allow access to small sections. Begin this process by simply leaving the door to your cat’s room open and allow them to exit when they choose, exploring a new section of your home at their own speed. Once they are fully comfortable in that section, you can allow more access. This process could take several days to several weeks depending on the size of your home and your cat’s comfort level.

Once your cat has access to more of the home, provide additional litter boxes so your cat has easy access to a box as they move around the house. Ideally, place a litter box on each level of the home and keep the litter box in their original room, as they will likely seek out that room and box as their safe space. After your cat is fully integrated into your home for several weeks, you can slowly move the original litter box to a new location if needed. To avoid litterbox issues, move the litter box slowly over time – literally a few feet at a time.
Pet Obesity

Unfortunately, most pet owners are not aware of this growing problem. Your veterinarian can help you distinguish whether or not your pet is at his or her ideal body weight. If it is determined that you pet is overweight, your veterinarian can discuss an appropriate diet for your pet, including the type and amount of food and the frequency of feedings. He or she can also help tailor an appropriate exercise plan for your individual pet, taking into account any medical conditions, breed, and age.

All pet owners should strive to maintain an ideal body weight for their pet. Obese dogs and cats are more likely to suffer from osteoarthritis, type 2 diabetes, high blood pressure, heart and respiratory disease, amongst many other issues. Most concerning is that being overweight can greatly decrease an animal’s life expectancy. By working with your veterinarian, you can help your pets stay at a healthy weight and can help ensure that they lead a long and healthy life.
Overstimulation with Play in Cats
Cats have innate predatory instincts for survival. Though house cats do not have to pounce, chase, and hunt for their next meal, those predatory behaviors are still practiced during play. They often stalk, chase, bat, pounce, kick, scratch, or bite anything that may resemble prey, such as inanimate objects, toys, and other animals. While these behaviors are normal, they become undesirable when directed toward a person. Overstimulation while playing occurs when a cat redirects play behaviors on a person by biting, scratching, or pouncing on hands, feet, ankles, or other body parts. This can happen during a play session, or when you are not engaging with your cat and they choose to focus on you.

Prevent Rough Play as a Kitten
Cats who have other kittens to play with while growing up learn to inhibit their bite and scratch when wrestling with their littermates – this is how they figure out how rough is too rough. Humans can accidentally reinforce rough play when using their body parts during play. Roughhousing with bare hands may be fun when kittens are small, but it becomes painful and dangerous as your kitten grows up. Using a wand toy during play will still allow you to bond with your kitten without encouraging them to pounce on feet or reach for hands. If the kitten begins to exhibit unwanted rough behavior, end the play session and allow them time to decompress before re-engaging. There may be times when you have to leave the space if the kitten is persistently biting and pouncing on feet, legs, hands, etc.

Know the Warning Signs
The following feline body language can help predict when a cat may be overstimulated:
- Ears back, or flicking back and forth
- Tail swishing, thumping, or twitching
- Dilated pupils, changing focus from toy to person
- Tensing of muscles
- Exposing claws
- Turning head quickly toward your hand, known as a “head flip”
- Hissing, growling, attempting to bite
If you see any of these warning signs, stop playing, do not attempt to interact, and allow the cat to decompress. If they do not choose to leave, you can toss a treat or toy away from you to redirect. Do not attempt to pick up an overstimulated cat.

Be Prepared
If your cat attacks your feet when you walk by or hides behind objects in order to pounce, carry some small toys such as glitter balls or treats in your pocket so you can toss them away from you. You should ideally use the toys proactively to direct the cat’s attention away from you before they launch at your feet, so they do not get to practice the behavior.

Schedule Play Time
Each day, schedule two or three 10-20 minute interactive play sessions when your cat is most energetic. A wand toy enables you to play with your cat while creating a safe distance between you, and you can make the toys move like prey would. You always want to lure your cat to play and should not stick the toy in their face. By allowing your cat to catch the toy at first, you can build up their confidence and enthusiasm. Note: wand toys should always be stored out of your cat’s reach when the play session is done.

Solo Play
Time You can provide your cat with enrichment by offering a variety of toys for them to play with by themselves. Just like people, cats can get bored with the same toys, so be sure to rotate them every few days to maintain interest. Please see the Enriching Your Cat’s Life page for ideas!

Do Not Punish Your Cat
Never physically or verbally punish your cat for rough play, as it may cause them to escalate their behavior or they may even begin to fear you. It is important to be mindful of cat body language to prevent them from becoming overstimulated and engaging in rough play. If a cat does become overstimulated, stop playing, do not attempt to interact, and allow the cat to decompress.

Getting a Playmate for Your Cat
If you are able to, getting another cat with similar energy and play style as a playmate can be a great option. If you plan on adding another cat into your home, it is best to slowly integrate them into your household, which you can learn more about on our Cat-Cat Introduction page.

It is beneficial to a cat’s mental and physical health to engage in play, but it is important to ensure they are channeling that energy appropriately. If at any time you are in need of support, don’t hesitate to contact the Wisconsin Humane Society behavior department at behavior@wihumane.org or 414-431-6173.
Overstimulation to Petting
Overstimulation to petting occurs when a cat finds petting or handling unpleasant. It is a normal response if a cat is experiencing discomfort. How much petting a cat finds enjoyable depends on the cat; not every cat becomes overstimulated with petting.

While some cats enjoy endless petting, others begin to find petting uncomfortable. Cats may hiss, growl, swat, or even bite as a way of letting us know they are not enjoying the interaction. Petting may physically cause a cat pain and may frustrate a cat if they lack control of the situation. Fortunately, cats typically give us subtle warning signs with their body language that the petting is unwanted. The number and intensity of warning signals vary, but when those warning signs are neglected or ignored, it might result in an aggressive reaction.

Know the warning signs

Cats rarely just turn and bite. Observation of changes in cat body language can help us predict when a cat is becoming overwhelmed:
- Ears may go back or flick back and forth
- Tail may start to swish, thump, or twitch
- Pupils of the eyes may dilate
- Muscles may become tense
- Claws may become exposed
- Cats may turn their head quickly toward your hand, often called a ‘head flip’
- Cat may hiss, growl, or attempt to bite
If you see any of these warning signs, STOP petting and do not attempt to interact. Allow the cat to decompress. If the cat does not choose to leave the interaction, you can toss a treat or toy off your lap to redirect. DO NOT attempt to pick up an overstimulated cat.

Time your petting

Once you are aware of the warning signs, you can start to time how long your cat likes to be petted. If the warning signs start about 2 minutes after starting to pet the cat, then never pet the cat for more than a minute and a half. (Always continue to watch for warning signs.)

Change how you pet your cat

Some cats prefer to be scratched under the chin or between the ears instead of receiving long, whole-body strokes. Try using one finger to pet gently solely on the face and cheeks. Let them rub on you. Often cats are happy just to rub on their person and don’t desire extended handling at all.

Daily playtime is important

Sometimes overstimulation is due to frustration from boredom. Make sure that your cat gets a good play session daily. Keeping your cat active and engaged is a good way to reduce frustration. Please see the “Enriching Your Cat’s Life” handout for ideas on how to keep your cat physically and mentally stimulated.

Modify behavior with high-value treats

Use positive reinforcement techniques to help connect petting with something your cat enjoys. After each stroke of petting, give your cat a treat he/she enjoys (small bit of canned food, cooked chicken, tuna, soft packaged treats, etc.). These should be short sessions and can be done multiple times a day. Stop if your cat shows any warning signs. In time, your cat may start to relate petting to something very enjoyable (a food treat).

Your cat may never want petting

Each cat is unique. Some cats enjoy human contact and love to be petted and held. Others may enjoy human companionship, but not necessarily human-initiated contact. Understand that while you can make positive associations with petting, some cats may never be able to handle petting and you should interact with them in whichever way they find positive and reinforcing.

If you have additional questions, contact the Wisconsin Humane Society behavior department at asktheexpert@wihumane.org or 414-431-6173.
Litter Box Success
Tips for setting up your cat for issue-free litter box usage

While there are some cats who will use their litter box regardless of the set-up, many cats have stronger preferences and require ideal conditions for consistent litter box usage. When bringing a new cat into a new home, it is important to set them up for litter box success regardless of their history with litter box usage. The below recommendations should be followed when welcoming your new cat home.
- When introducing your new cat into the home, confine the cat to one room with litter boxes, a bed, food, and water. The cat should remain in this room until they have used the litter boxes consistently for at least one week. It is okay to use just one litter box during this period if your cat will be confined to a small space such as a bathroom. When your cat shows an interest in exploring the rest of the house you can begin to slowly introduce them to the rest of the home. This should be a slow process and time out of the room should be supervised. If you have other animals in the home, check out the handout on introducing your new cat to resident animals for more details on proper introductions.
- The rule of thumb for the number of litter boxes is: one per cat in the household, plus one. Extra litter boxes are necessary because some cats like to defecate in one and urinate in another. Others will not use a box that has already been used by another cat. The litter boxes should be uncovered and at least 22″ x 16″ for an adult cat.
- Place additional litter boxes in quiet, private places that are easily accessible to the cat and where they will not be disturbed by children or ambushed by other animals. Noisy areas near washing machines, furnaces or under stairs may frighten the cat away from the box. A house with multiple stories should have a litter box on each floor. Different areas for the litter boxes can prevent location-avoidance problems. NEVER place litter boxes near food and water dishes. Once you have decided on the placement for the litter boxes in your house, do not move them.
- Use an unscented, sand-like scoopable litter. Perfumed, chemical scents repel cats. Be sure to select a brand that clumps into a firm ball, making scooping easier and cleaner.
- Do not use litter box liners—these can be irritating to some cats. Also, covered or hooded litter boxes can be offensive to cats as they do not satisfy the cat’s need for escape potential when eliminating. They also trap the odor inside, creating an “outhouse effect.”
- Clean the litter boxes DAILY. The single most common reason for a cat’s refusal to use a litter box is because the box is dirty. The litter should be scooped daily and the litter boxes washed when soiled, or at least once per month. (Bacteria left in the litter boxes will smell to the cat, even if you can’t smell it.) When washing the litter boxes, use hot water and an unscented dishwashing liquid. Do not use harsh chemicals that will leave a lingering odor.
- Cats find consistent routines and predictable environments very comforting, so try to keep your cat’s activities on a schedule. Playtimes, mealtimes, and bedtimes should occur approximately the same time every day. The less stress your cat experiences, the less likely they are to have litter box issues.
If you experience litter box issues after following these recommendations check out the handout on Solving Litter Box Problems. If you have additional questions contact the Wisconsin Humane Society behavior team at asktheexpert@wihumane.org or 414-431-6173.
Leash Training Your Cat
How to Teach a Cat to Walk on a Leash

The outdoors is full of enrichment opportunities for cats. These sights, movements, sounds, and smells are enticing and stimulating. It is important to make sure cats are safely secure when bringing them outside. Some owners use a large cat playpen or crate, but you can also take your cat out on a harness and leash. Here is a step-by-step guide to help your cat feel comfortable on a harness and leash. Throughout this process, you will be watching your cat’s body language to ensure their comfort. Before beginning, check out the Cat Body Language handout so that you are familiar with how cats communicate, so you can identify when your cat is relaxed and when they are showing signs of stress.

Training Steps
- You will need to have an appropriately sized harness. A harness is safer than a collar and much more difficult for your cat to get out of. Size may depend on harness brand, so always check individual harness recommendations. A harness should be snug but allow you to put two fingers between the harness and the cat. Adventure Cat https://store.adventurecats.org/ has several harnesses made just for cats, or you can find the PetSafe Gentle Leader Come with Me Kitty Harness at your local pet store pictured here.
- Get your cat used to wearing a harness indoors. If your cat is uncomfortable with the handling to put on a harness right away, that is okay! Use smelly cat treats and or canned food to work up to putting the harness on. Once it is on, a lot of cats will freeze when a harness is put on them for the first time. Pairing the harness with smelly cat treats or canned food will associate the harness with positive things! If your cat loves to play, start a play session with your cat’s favorite toy. Your cat will begin to see the harness and know good things are coming!
- Once your cat is comfortable with the harness on, attach a leash. Let your cat drag around the leash so they get used to the tension and feel of the harness. Continue to introduce treats, canned food or toys to continue the positive associations.
- If your cat is displaying relaxed body language with the harness and dragging the leash, pick up the leash. This will be a good opportunity for you to coax your cat with treats to follow you.
- When your cat is comfortable with all the above steps, you can now go outside! Make sure the first few times you lead your cat outside that it is a quiet time of day and start in an area that has less activity. We do not want your cat to have a negative reaction or be frightened by this new experience.
- Follow your cat’s lead! Some cats will slowly walk along with you, and you can offer smelly treats along the way. Other cats may prefer to start with a small space. Your cat may prefer that you sit in a quiet part of the yard and let your cat explore while you hold the leash. Keep the first several sessions short so your cat does not become overwhelmed. If your cat seems scared or does not explore, pick them up and take back inside and try again later. You never want to leave your cat outside unattended for their safety.
Remember that grass and woods are much more interesting to your cat than a concrete sidewalk! Taking a cat outside is a great way to provide mental stimulation and possible physical exercise. Using a leash with a harness makes it safer!
Keep Your Cat Inside
Whether they live in the city, in the suburbs, or in the country, outdoor cats can face a multitude of risks. Many owners believe that cats are happiest when roaming outside, when in fact household cats are more likely to die prematurely from diseases, poisons, and vehicular collisions when allowed to roam outdoors. The lifespan of a free-roaming cat is shorter compared to the 15-18 years for the average indoor-only cat.

The Wisconsin Humane Society operates the state’s largest Wildlife Rehabilitation Center, and we are concerned with the welfare of both domestic and wild animals. We encourage cat owners to keep their cats indoors to protect their animals, as well as native wildlife.

The Wisconsin Humane Society recommends the following steps to help your cats live long, healthy lives:
- Keep your cat indoors. Outdoors cats have a much shorter life span than those who live indoors. If you currently allow your cat outside, check out these tips for training him or her to stay inside.
- Make sure your cat wears a collar and an identification tag. Also consider having your cat microchipped. The microchipping procedure is fast and easy, and can make a big difference in helping you get your cat back if they ever go missing. All cats adopted from the Wisconsin Humane Society leave with a microchip.
- Spay or neuter your cat. This surgery helps reduce overpopulation and has health and behavior benefits for you and your cat. The Wisconsin Humane Society spays or neuters all cats prior to adoption. We also have spay/neuter resources available to the public at various locations. Visit https://www.wihumane.org/spay-neuter for more information.
- Encourage neighbors, family and friends to keep their cats indoors.
Introducing Your New Cat to a Resident Cat

Congratulations on adopting a new feline family member! Now it is time to prepare for a period of adjustment for both cats in your home. The most important aspect when introducing your new cat to your resident cat is time. Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t matter if your new cat is the same age, gender, or size as your resident cat, their relationship will depend on each cats’ level of socialization and personality. If your resident cat has never lived with another cat, it may take longer for them to accept a new cat into their home. Taking extra time with the initial introduction will give your cats the best chance at becoming companions.

Step 1: Before bringing your new cat home

Before you bring your new feline friend home, set up their space. Your new cat will need to be completely isolated before you begin introductions to the rest of the home and any resident animals. A spare bedroom or large bathroom is ideal, with access to their own food, water, comfortable resting place, clean litter box, and scratching post. This room will need to have a door that closes completely. If there is a crack under the door, it should be blocked with a towel.

Step 2: Complete isolation from resident pets

Bring your new cat home in a carrier and go straight to their prepared space. Open the carrier and let them come out and explore the room on their own. Leave the carrier in the room so your resident cat does not come upon it. Keep in mind that cats are sensitive animals, and your new cat has likely just been through a lot of change and stress. This period of alone time allows your cat to relax and get to know the sounds, smells, and people in their new home.

There is no set amount of time to keep them isolated. It could be days or weeks, but you must wait until both cats are completely settled and relaxed before you move to the next step. We recommend erring on the side of too much time to avoid causing unnecessary stress by not waiting long enough.

Step 3: The scent exchange

Now you can begin to let the cats get used to each other’s scent. Watch where they rest or sleep and put a T-shirt or towel there for them to lay on. Once their scent is on these items, put the item in the other cat’s area. Do not set it on their sleeping place, simply put it somewhere in the open for the other cat to investigate in their own time. You might be surprised by the reactions you see! Once both cats are completely comfortable with each other’s scent you can move to the next step. Again, err on the side of too much time.

Step 4: Creating a positive association

Now that they are comfortable with each other’s scent, you can begin to create a positive association by removing the towel from the crack in the door and feeding each cat on far opposite sides of the door. Start at a distance where they are comfortably eating and over days (or weeks, depending on the cat) decrease the distance between them. This will help each cat figure out that good things (food) happen when the other cat is nearby.

Step 5: Love at first sight?

Ideally, this step would involve the cats observing each other from a distance, but this is difficult in most home setups. One way to let them safely see each other is to open the door an inch or two using door stops. Another option is to use stacked baby gates to create 5-7 feet of height to prevent your cats from jumping over them (picture on right).

Continue to create a positive association by offering treats or small amounts of canned food while they are in view of one another. The treats or food should be offered at a comfortable distance so that neither cat is hissing or displaying a tense body. If you see these behaviors, slow down and go back to feeding with the door closed. This should be done a few times a day, slowly decreasing the distance between them. This could be done over the course of a few days or weeks. Do not proceed until both cats are comfortable in one another’s presence.

Step 6: Exploring the new environment

Now you can begin to let the new cat out of their isolated space to explore the rest of the home. The resident cat should be confined to a room with the door closed and access to their own food, water and litter box. Do this once or twice day for about an hour until your new cat is relaxed in the new parts of the home.

Step 7: Together at last

Finally, it is time for them to be together! It’s a good idea to add extra resources such as perches, scratching posts, litter boxes, food, and water bowls throughout the house. There should be one person present to interact individually with each cat and monitor their behaviors. This allows the cats to comfortably be in the same room without having to focus on each other. Interacting can include playing with a wand toy, petting, or any activity the cat enjoys. Never leave the cats alone unsupervised. If you do start to see fighting or aggression, such as hissing or growling, be prepared to break it up by tossing a pillow or blanket as a distraction. Bring the new cat back to their isolated space and start again at step two. You may also refer to our “Aggression Between Cats” handout.

If your cats are not getting along and you continue to see aggression, you may need the help of a professional. Call or email the WHS Behavior Line at behavior@wihumane.org or 414-431-6173 for expert advice.
DIY Scratching post guide
Making a Sisal-Wrapped Scratching Post

Supplies

This scratching post has been cat-tested and guardian-approved. Here is a list of the supplies needed. These supplies can be purchased at most building supply stores.
- One cedar post that is about 30″ tall and at least 4″ in diameter
- A bundle of ½” non-oiled sisal rope
- A 16″ X 16″ piece of ¾” plywood to make the base sturdy ½” roofing nails
- Four 3/4″ 16d coated sinker nails
The size requirement for this type of scratching post has come from our “cat testers.” The reasoning behind this cat post is simple. A post should be as high as your cat is tall when he or she is fully stretched out, plus a few inches. The post should also be wide enough that your cat can sit on top and survey the surroundings. The base should be sturdy enough so that the post will not tip over. Once a post tips over on a cat it is very hard to convince that cat to use the post again. The post should be wrapped with sisal rope because cats like something to dig their nails into and the rope lasts a very long time.

Directions

Before beginning you will want to make sure your cedar post is dry to reduce the chance of any shrinking of the post after it is wrapped with the sisal. While wrapping the post, you might want to wear a pair of work gloves to protect your hands. You will want to use roofing nails to secure the beginning of your rope securely all the way around the top edge of the post. Continually wind the rope around the post very tightly so that there are no gaps between the pieces of rope. This wrapping process will take you all the way down to the bottom of the post. Nail the end of your rope all the way around the bottom of the post. Next, you will want to nail the plywood base onto the post, use the four ¾” nails and pound them through the bottom of the plywood base and into the bottom of the post. You now have a cat-approved scratching post!

Training

To introduce the post to your adult cat, you may want to use catnip as a lure (kittens younger than 5 months of age are not affected by catnip). Rub the catnip right into the rope so that the cat can smell the wonderful aroma. Once your cat has smelled the catnip, scratch your nails gently along the surface of the rope. This will help teach your cat where to scratch. Once your cat begins to use the post, praise your cat. You can also reward your cat with a food treat. If your cat is using a certain corner of the couch as a scratching post, place your new post next to that corner. If the cat is still using the couch as a scratching post, cover that corner of the couch with double-sided tape. This is unattractive to your cat and the tape can easily be removed when entertaining company.

Completed scratching posts can be purchased at the Animal Antics store inside any Wisconsin Humane Society location.
Countertop Jumping in Cats
Is your cat jumping up onto your kitchen countertops or other high surfaces where you don’t want them to be? There are some spots in your home where it may be unhygienic or even downright hazardous for your cat, but they’ll need some help understanding the boundaries you set.

Most cats enjoy being in high places to keep an eye on the world around and below them, and this often includes kitchen countertops. Although some cat owners don’t mind this behavior and allow their feline friends to explore their counters, there are some owners who find this behavior to be bothersome, unhygienic, or worry-inducing. It is important to remember that your cat will not innately understand where you do and don’t want them to be, as jumping up on spaces high off the ground is a normal and natural behavior for them. Modifying this behavior is possible but takes work and consistency.

Whether you allow this behavior or not, there are several potential hazards to both cats and humans if your cat likes to prowl on kitchen counters. They could accidentally step onto a hot stove, paw at knives or sharp utensils, ingest chemical residue from cleaning products, or consume food that may upset their stomach. You could also be at risk for sanitary issues, as cats scratch around in their litter and often have residual crystals in their paws which could lead to bacteria contaminating any food you’re prepping on that surface.

Why does my cat like being on the countertop?

Not only do cats love heights, but your counters also have many qualities that encourage and even reinforce the behavior. The kitchen is a social place where you, their favorite human, spend a lot of time. If they’re looking for attention from you, they’re sure to get some as soon as they leap up to investigate what you’re working on. The kitchen also smells good and is intriguing to curious cats, and they may even be rewarded for jumping up if they find a little food to snack on once they get there. Some cats are also interested in running water and may enjoy going into the sink if there is a drip. No matter what is piquing their interest, there are ways you can deter them from the habit and ensure your kitchen stays a clean and safe space.

Ways to reduce your cat’s desire to jump on countertops

Management | Start by making your counter unrewarding by keeping your countertop clean. Remove all food, crumbs, plants, mail baskets, or anything else your cat may be drawn to. Without realizing it, you may be leaving “rewards” on your counter, and if your cat is rewarded for jumping on the counter, the behavior will continue.

If your cat has the opportunity to practice jumping on the countertop while you are out of the home, the behavior will take much longer to modify. You may need to close the doors leading to your kitchen or create a cat-safe space in a bedroom so they don’t have access to the kitchen while you are not home. If you do choose to place your cat in a separate bedroom when you’re away, you will need to provide them with a scratching post, comfortable bed, food, water, toys, litter box, and enrichment items.

More Playtime/Enrichment | In some situations, your cat may be bored and will keep themselves occupied by exploring the countertops. If there is a pattern of your cat jumping on the countertop and you entering the kitchen to get them down, they will quickly learn this is an easy way to get your attention. Try adding more scheduled, daily playtime with your cat. You may try using a cat charmer, tossing their favorite small toys to chase, or giving them extra enrichment throughout the day.

If your cat is interested in the countertops due to leaking or running water from the faucet, try providing them with their own running water bowl/fountain in an appropriate spot on the floor and ensure your faucet gets fixed.

Provide More Cat Furniture and Alternative Perches | Does your cat have enough places in the home where they can be high off the ground? This could include pet-specific items like a cat tree or climber, or it could be as simple as a mantel, a window ledge, or a comfy spot atop the back of the couch. If they don’t already have multiple high-perspective options, you may want to invest in a climbing tree or cat tower. If that’s not in your budget, take a closer look at how your furniture is arranged. Are you able to move a small table underneath a window so your cat can hop up and look out? Could you move a sturdy shelf closer to the mantel for your cat to safely jump up onto? When adding or rearranging items in your home, you can place treats at the top as a rewarding surprise to encourage and reinforce that this spot was meant just for them.

If your cat already has cat furniture that provides them with high views and they continue to counter surf, you may want to try providing them with acceptable alternatives inside the kitchen. This could be a cat tree that you move into the kitchen, a chair, or a bar stool. No matter what you choose, make sure that spot is extra appealing, if not irresistible to your cat. When you see them go to that designated place, be sure to heavily reinforce them with praise, petting, and their favorite treats. Keep in mind, all cats are individuals and may find different things reinforcing, so stick with what your cat likes best.

If your cat is highly interested in a window that’s only accessible from the kitchen counter, you’ll need to find ways to make a different window more appealing. Start on the inside by ensuring your cat has easy access and a comfortable spot to rest while they watch the world pass by. Slide a cat tree or table to the new window, place a bed in the sill if it’s large enough, or buy a perch that attaches directly to the window itself. Next, find ways to add extra interest outside the window by adding bird feeders, plants that attract pollinators, or other devices meant to attract critters. On that note, you’ll want to ensure none of these items are visible from the kitchen window, as we want that counter spot to be as uninteresting as possible for them.

Redirection | If your cat does jump up on the counter, calmly and gently pick them up and guide them to a more appropriate place with food or toys. Be sure to continue to reinforce those approved spaces with treats and little bits of canned cat food so they become more desirable than your countertops.

Deterrents | If you’ve tried all of the above plans routinely and consistently over time and they still did not work, you may consider using deterrents as a last resort while continuing to use the management plans above. When determining what deterrents to use, be sure they are not going to cause major stress or harm to your cat. Cats generally don’t respond well to punishment and don’t make the connection that their own behavior caused a frightening thing to happen. Punishment often causes stress in cats and can provoke aggression, creating a whole new problem for you to solve. Frightening deterrents can also harm your relationship with your cat and erode their trust.

We do not recommend coin-shaking cans, water spray bottles, sprays that emit a burst of air, nor scat mats that deliver a static shock or contain spikes.

If you plan to use deterrents, the following products are less stressful while still making the countertop an unpleasant place for them to be.
- Sticky Tape: Using double-sided tape may deter your cats from jumping on the counter because they are surprised by this foreign item and don’t like the feeling of the stickiness on their paws. You can either place the tape directly on your counter or buy cheap place mats and place the tape on one side, facing up. Eventually, you may be able to slowly remove the placemats from the counter if you notice your cat is no longer jumping up. If the behavior appears again, you can reintroduce the same approach.
- Aluminum Foil: You can also try taping crinkled aluminum foil along the counters. Cats often dislike the feeling on their toes, may find its slipperiness concerning, and don’t care for the noise. Again, the longer you can leave the foil up, the more it will reinforce the deterrent, but you can always replace it if your cat begins jumping up again once you remove it.
Helpful products | For a wide variety of cat supplies, including perches, trees, high-value treats, cozy beds, interactive toys, running water bowls, and other helpful tools, visit shop.wihumane.org and click on “Cats.” Prices are highly competitive and 100% of proceeds benefit the shelter animals at the Wisconsin Humane Society.

Be consistent | Consistency is the most important key to stopping your cat from counter-jumping. After a few weeks of persistent, hard work, your cat should find new places to perch that are more enjoyable than your counters!