• Animal Behavior Video Library

    Looking for extra behavior support with your new or current pet? Check out our behavior tips and resources, or browse our video library below for demonstrations by WHS behavior experts.

    If there is a special question you would like answered that is not addressed in the videos below, please email us or call 414-431-6173 to speak with our behavior experts.


    Dog Behavior Videos

    Video topics include:

    • Decompression Walks
    • Modifying Leash Reactivity
    • The Trade Game
    • Resource Guarding Management
    • Behavior Modification for Barrier Reactivity
    • Using Barriers to Support Your Behavior Modification Plan
    • A Guide to Muzzle Training

    Decompression Walks

    YouTube video

    Modifying Leash Reactivity

    YouTube video

    The Trade Game

    YouTube video

    Resource Guarding Management

    YouTube video

    Behavior Modification for Barrier Reactivity

    YouTube video

    Using Barriers to Support Your Behavior Modification Plan

    YouTube video

    A Guide to Muzzle Training

    YouTube video

    Cat Behavior Videos

    Video topics include:

    • Teach Your Cat to Love Their Carrier
    • Introducing a Fearful Cat to Your Home
    • Introducing a New Cat to Your Resident Cat
    • Kitten Socialization

    Teach Your Cat to Love Their Carrier

    YouTube video

    Introducing a New Cat to Your Resident Cat

    YouTube video

    Kitten Socialization

    YouTube video

    Additional Resources

    Looking for more advice from our behavior experts?

    Check out our Ask the Experts page for answers to commonly asked questions about dogs, cats, and small animals!

  • Pet Licensing

    There are many great reasons to get your animals licensed, but the most important reason is that it’s the law – Wisconsin State Statute requires that all dogs and cats over five months of age must receive a Rabies vaccination tag and license tag.

    Plus, stray pets that are licensed are more likely to be reunited quickly with their owners. 

    The Wisconsin Humane Society provides licensing services at these campuses:

    • Milwaukee Campus, for any Milwaukee County municipality
    • Green Bay Campus, for City of Green Bay ONLY

    For costs and requirements, contact the WHS Campus in your area listed above.
    Please note: the Ozaukee, Racine, Kenosha, and Door County Campuses do not provide licensing services. 

    For additional pet licensing information for your area, including costs and where to purchase, please click on your county below.

  • Senior Pet FAQ

    Senior animals make wonderful pets and excellent companions. There are many benefits to adding a senior pet to your family. Before you look past a senior, consider some of the benefits. Some of the great reasons to adopt a senior are:

    • Predictable behavior – when a dog reaches senior status their personality is well developed. You’ll even know the full-grown size and activity level before you bring them home. 
    • Easy to train – who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks? Seniors require less monitoring and typically have a baseline of training.
    • Lower exercise – senior dogs typically don’t want to run a marathon. They’d rather hang back and spend quality time hanging out with you in the comfort of a climate-controlled space. Take them for a short walk or a swim and today’s exercise is complete! 
    • More sleep for you! – Senior dogs are much more accustomed to the predictable daytime and evening patterns of their families. This means that your bedtime typically isn’t their play time, and Fido often has no problem staying asleep through the night. 
    senior dog with gray muzzle

    Senior dogs do need some special accommodations.

    To keep your dog at prime health, most veterinarians recommend a checkup every 6 months for any dog considered to be a senior. Senior status is typically dependent on age, but other factors such as breed or size can also be a factor.

    As dogs age, they typically slow down. It can be challenging to ensure that they are getting enough exercise and to keep a healthy weight. Providing your pet with low-impact exercise is a great way to keep them mentally and physically stimulated. Low-impact activities include short walks, gentle play, indoor games, swimming, or hiking on flat terrain. Running long distances or taking a strenuous walk may be rough on joints, especially for pets who aren’t used to that level of exercise. If weight is an issue, reach out to your vet for a weight loss plan. Talk to your veterinarian about whether your pet would benefit from a diet formulated for senior animals.

    One of the most frequent problem areas for senior pets is their teeth! Unfortunately, bad oral health can end up affecting the whole body. Keep teeth and gums healthy by preventing tartar build-up. If too much tartar gets on your pet’s teeth it can cause a slew of health issues by allowing bacteria to get into the bloodstream. There are many ways you can prevent tartar build-up. This includes:

    • Visit the VOHC (Veterinary Oral Health Counsel) for a list of dental chew and other oral health products
    • Brushing your dog’s teeth at least twice a week 
    • Consult with your veterinarian about feeding a prescription dental health diet
  • Lyme Disease

    Helping to Prevent Lyme Disease Transmission

    Lyme Disease is a debilitating illness that is transmitted by deer ticks. These ticks live on deer and mice and tend to be found in wooded areas. Humans may experience flu-like symptoms and a bull’s eye type rash with a white center that may appear after the bite. If you become ill with fever, headaches, chills or pain in your muscles or joints after camping or hiking in wooded areas, it is recommended that you see your physician. The long-term effects, if left untreated, can include heart, eye, respiratory and digestive issues.

    Companion animals can also suffer from Lyme Disease. Symptoms in animals can include, loss of appetite, lameness, listlessness, swollen glands and joints or fever. Long-term affects of Lyme’s disease in animals include problems with the heart, liver, kidney, nervous system and eyes.

    Lyme Disease is most successfully treated in humans and animals if diagnosed early. Treatment includes antibiotics under the supervision of your physician or veterinarian. Relapses and complications are possible.

    The best way to protect yourself or your companion animal from contracting Lyme Disease is to avoid areas where deer ticks are found. The following additional precautions can be taken when traveling and at home to minimize the risk.

    • Tuck in clothing in order to limit exposed skin.
    • Wear light colored clothing to more easily spot ticks.
    • Make frequent inspections for ticks on you, loved ones and companion animals.
    • Heating worn clothing in the dryer for 30 minutes can kill any ticks that may remain on clothes unseen.
    • Stay on trails during hikes and keep your companion leashed beside you.
    • Apply repellants, but be sure to read the label carefully for ingredients that may be harmful to children or animals.
    • Talk to your veterinarian about continual protection for your animal from ticks.
    • If you live near wooded areas, clear away brush or vegetation from your yard that might attract deer or wild mice.
    • Keep your lawn mowed and limit lawn watering.
    • Don’t plant items that would attract deer.
    • Brush your animal completely over a light colored surface in which ticks can be easily spotted after returning from a wooded area.
    • All tick removal should be done at the site, if possible, to limit the spread of deer ticks into new areas.

    Removing ticks can be done with special removers like the Tick Twister, or a tweezer by gently pulling straight out. Avoid squeezing the tick as additional bacteria could enter the bloodstream.

    You can learn more about Lyme Disease and tick identification by visiting the CDC here

  • Heartworm Disease FAQs

    Thanks to the American Heartworm Society for much of this information.

    What is Heartworm disease?

    Heartworm disease is a serious and potentially fatal disease in pets in the United States and many other parts of the world.  It is caused by foot-long worms that live in the heart, lungs, and associated blood vessels, causing severe lung disease, heart failure, and other organ damage with time.  Heartworm disease affects dogs, cats, ferrets, and some wild animals such as wolves, coyotes, and fox.  Wild animals are considered important carriers of the disease. 

    The dog is the natural host for heartworms, which means the parasite can mature to adults and produce offspring to continue the life cycle.  Cats are atypical hosts and the heartworms usually do not survive to the adult stage, however there can still be severe health effects.

    How is Heartworm transmitted from one pet to another?

    The mosquito plays an essential role in the heartworm life cycle.  Adult female heartworms living inside a dog, coyote, wolf, or fox produce microscopic offspring called microfilaria that circulate in the bloodstream.  When a mosquito bites and takes a blood meal from an infected animal it picks up the microfilaria, which mature into an “infective stage” larva inside the mosquito over a period of 10-14 days.  Then, when the infected mosquito bites another dog, cat, or susceptible wild animal, the infective larvae are deposited into that animal.  These larvae then go on to become adult heartworms in approximately 6 months.   Once mature, heartworms can live for 5-7 years in dogs and 2-3 years in cats.  Because of the longevity of these worms, each mosquito season can lead to an increasing number of worms in an infected animal.

    What are the signs of Heartworm disease in dogs?

     In early stages of the disease, many dogs show few or no symptoms at all.  The longer the infection persists, the more likely symptoms will develop.  Active dogs, dogs heavily infected with heartworms, or those with other health problems often show pronounced clinical signs.

    Signs of heartworm disease may include a mild persistent cough, reluctance to exercise, fatigue after moderate activity, decreased appetite, and weight loss.  As heartworm disease progresses, pets may develop heart failure and the appearance of a swollen belly due to excess fluid in the abdomen. 

    The adult heartworms cause inflammation of the blood vessels and can block blood flow leading to pulmonary thrombosis (clots in the lungs) and heart failure.  Heartworm disease can also lead to liver or kidney failure.  Large numbers of worms can cause sudden blockages of blood flow within the heart leading to a life-threatening cardiovascular collapse.  This is marked by a sudden onset of labored breathing, pale gums, and dark bloody or coffee-colored urine.  Prompt surgical removal of the blockage is needed or the dog will not likely survive.

    When should my dog be tested for Heartworm? Is it preventable?

    Heartworm disease is a serious, progressive disease, so the earlier it is detected the better the chances for recovery.  The test requires just a small blood sample from your pet and it works by detecting the presence of heartworm proteins.

     Puppies under 7 months of age can be started on heartworm preventative without a heartworm test, since it takes 6 months after infection for a dog to test positive.  The puppy should then be tested 6 months after the initial visit and again 6 months later.  After that, testing should be yearly.

    Dogs over 7 months of age and previously not on preventative need to be tested prior to starting heartworm prevention.  They also need to be tested 6 months after the initial visit and again 6 months later.  After that, testing should be yearly.

    Dogs over 7 months and who have been on preventative should have yearly heartworm tests.

    Annual testing is necessary, even when dogs are on a heartworm preventative medication.  These medications are highly effective, but dogs can still become infected, especially if you miss one dose or give it late. Dogs can also unknowingly spit out the oral medication or rub off the topical medication.

    What happens if my dog tests positive for Heartworm?

    Restrict exercise.  Your dog’s normal physical activity must be restricted as soon as the diagnosis is confirmed, because physical exertion increases the rate at which the heartworm causes damage to the heart and lungs.  The more severe the symptoms, the less activity your dog should have.

    Stabilize your dog’s disease.  Before actual heartworm treatment can begin, your dog’s condition needs to be stabilized.  Dogs with serious disease will need some time to stabilize. 

    Administer treatment.  Begin treatment using the American Heartworm Society’s guidelines.  This will take several months and includes microfilaricides, Doxycycline, and adulticide injections.  There may be other medications, depending on the severity of the disease. 

    Test to determine success of treatment. Approximately 6 months after the end of treatment you should have a heartworm test done to make sure the worms have been cleared.  You must wait this long because worm particles may take a long time to clear and these particles will give a positive test.

    How successful is the treatment for Heartworm?

    Dogs with no signs or mild signs of heartworm disease, such as cough or exercise intolerance, have a high success rate with treatment.  More severe disease can also be successfully treated, but the possibility of complications is greater.  Success also depends on the dog’s activity level during treatment.  If exercise is not restricted, it can lead to more complications.  Dogs who are older or have other health problems may be compromised already and not do as well with treatment.

  • Why License Your Cat?

    Your companion animal may become lost. A license tag provides proper identification to assist you in locating your animal should he or she become lost or stray.

    Your Municipality May Require It.  Many municipalities have licensing requirements for dogs, cats, ferrets, and pot-bellied pigs.  These requirements ensure your animal is vaccinated for rabies.   License fees vary by municipality and must be renewed annually. 

    To obtain a license you will need to have proof of rabies. If your pet is not current on their rabies vaccination. Please go to your veterinarian or to a vaccination clinic to obtain their rabies vaccination. The dates for our upcoming clinics can be found here. 

    Unsure of how to obtain a license?

    To obtain a license the first step is to have a copy of your proof of rabies.

    Licenses have different fee amounts based on age, whether or not your pet is altered, number of pets in the home, and municipality in which you live.

    To learn more about licensing in your municipality click on your county below:

    Milwaukee County (Licenses for Milwaukee County are also available for purchase at the Wisconsin Humane Society Milwaukee Campus)

    Ozaukee County

    Racine County

    Sheboygan County

    Waukesha County

    Washington County

    Kenosha County

    Walworth County

  • Training Your Cat To Stay Inside

    Bringing an outdoor cat indoors can be stressful, here are some tips on making it a successful transition

    Most cats who are kept indoors from the start show no inclination to go outdoors. In fact, they may become frightened if they accidentally wander out the door.

    But what if your cat is already used to being allowed outside? Transforming a free-roaming cat into a safe cat can be done, but it does require planning, persistence and patience. The key is to make the change from outdoors to indoors gradually, until the new way of life becomes old hat. Many cats will adjust with minimal effort while others will be miserable and let you know it. They may scratch at doors, claw at windows, yowl and try to dash through open doors.

    • If your cat has never used a scratching post or a litter box, introduce both items well in advance of transitioning your cat to life inside. If you’re feeding your cat outdoors, begin feeding him indoors. Then, instead of letting the cat back outside as soon as he’s finished eating, keep him inside for gradually longer periods of time.
    • Other members of the household may have to be “retrained” to close doors quickly and provide more stimulation for their feline friend. Playing with the cat is a great way to keep both his mind and body in shape.
    • Some former free-roamers will appreciate your providing “kitty greens” for them to munch on instead of your houseplants. Try planting grass, alfalfa, catnip, wheat or oat grass (sold in pet supply stores) in indoor pots for this purpose.
    • If you live in a climate that has cold winters, that season may be the perfect time to help your cat make the transition to a life indoors. Your cat is likely to appreciate a warm, dry bed in which to snuggle.
    • If you’re having trouble slowly transitioning your cat to a happy life indoors, it may be better to go “cold turkey.” Letting your cat outdoors occasionally may only reinforce his pestering behaviors. Your veterinarian may prescribe a short-term drug or homeopathic therapy to help your cat through the transition period.

    Considering making your indoor cat an outdoor cat?

    • If you have an indoor cat who is scratching your couch or not using the litter box, think twice before you put your cat outdoors. Consult your veterinarian to rule out any medical problems that could be contributing to problem behaviors. If your cat gets a clean bill of health, work with your veterinarian, a trainer, or animal behavior specialist who uses positive training techniques. There is always a reason, from your cat’s point of view, for behavior that you consider to be inappropriate. He is not acting out of spite or revenge. Patience and persistence, not punishment, are the best way to get your cat back to his good habits.
    • If allergies or pregnancy make you think about putting your cat outside or even giving up the cat, consult your physician and learn how to manage those conditions while keeping your cat safe.

    By providing for your indoor cat’s physical and emotional needs, you can create a safe and stimulating environment. Although domesticated several thousand years ago, cats still retain many behaviors of their wild ancestors. These delightful behaviors can be played out in the great indoors. A paper grocery bag, a cat’s vivid imagination, and your caring attitude will go a long way toward keeping you and your cat safe and young at heart.


    If you would like to work with a Wisconsin Humane Society behaviorist one-on-one regarding this behavior topic, please call 414-431-6173 or email behavior@wihumane.org to schedule a consultation.

  • Toxic Household Products

    Adapted from the American Animal Hospital Association

    As a pet owner, you want to keep your furry friend safe and healthy, but their curious nature can occasionally get them into trouble. Animals investigate the world with their mouths, and they can ingest poisonous substances accidentally. 

    Pets and Medications

    Even medication that does not require a prescription can be extremely dangerous to your pet. Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories such as ibuprofen and naproxen can cause acute kidney failure and should never be given to pets. Do not try to treat a pet’s medical problem at home without consulting a veterinarian, and never give them medication that is not approved for veterinary use.

    Prescription animal medications often are flavored to increase palatability, so pets may mistake them for treats and eat more than prescribed. Inquisitive pets may even eat pills that aren’t flavored, so keep all medications out of reach. Remember, animals can chew through plastic bottles, so child-proof may not mean pet-proof.

    What foods are toxic to pets?

    Many foods that are safe for people can be deadly to pets and this is not a comprehensive list. Keep the following toxic/dangerous foods away from your dog:

    • Avocado seed
    • Alcohol
    • Caffeinated drinks
    • Cooked bones
    • Chocolate
    • Garlic
    • Grapes and raisins
    • Macadamia nuts
    • Onions
    • Raw yeast dough
    • Xylitol (often found in sugar-free gum and some peanut butter)

    Never leave food where your pet can reach it, and keep pets out of the kitchen when children are eating to prevent them from gobbling up dropped morsels.

    What other household items are dangerous to my pet?

    Products such as paint, glue, and cleaning chemicals often are left out on the assumption that pets won’t eat these bad-smelling/bad-tasting substances, but it’s not worth the risk. Some pets lap up liquids because they have an interesting texture or feel good on the tongue. Household products can contain dangerous chemicals and some glues expand in the stomach, causing a life-threatening blockage.

    Ant baits, bug sprays, and foggers can also be poisonous to your pet. Read labels to ensure proper use of these products and prevent pets from exposure during and after use. Store all insecticides on high shelves out of a pet’s reach.

    Products designed to kill rodents are particularly dangerous to pets, as they may be tempted to eat the tasty bricks, granules, or pellets left out for mice and rats. Rodenticides kill rodents by causing internal bleeding, high calcium levels, brain swelling, or toxic gas production. Never put rat bait out where your pet can find it and keep your pet confined to your yard to prevent him from eating your neighbors’ rodenticides. Find safe, humane solutions to wildlife conflicts by visiting www.wihumane.org/wildlife

    Plants Toxic to Pets

    Plants found in flower beds, vegetable gardens, and indoor planters or arrangements can be toxic to pets. Cats – who particularly like to munch on greenery – are sensitive to many plant types, but dogs can also be at risk. A complete list of toxic and non-toxic plants can be found on ASPCA’s website, but the most common toxic plants include:

    • Aloe
    • Autumn crocus
    • Azalea
    • Begonia
    • Boxwood
    • Burning Bush
    • Creeping Charlie
    • Cyclamen
    • Daffodils
    • Hyacinth
    • Hosta
    • Hydrangeas
    • Kalanchoe
    • Lily of the Valley
    • Lilies
    • Oleander
    • Sage palm
    • Tulips 

    If your pet eats leaves, flowers, or stems, immediately take them and a plant sample to your veterinarian. Although toxicity signs may not be apparent, it is vital to remove poisonous material as soon as possible to prevent toxin absorption in the body.

    Many products used on lawns, gardens, and flower beds can cause toxicity in pets. Fertilizers made from bone or blood meal are tempting to pets and can cause pancreatitis if ingested, or can clump in the intestines or stomach, causing a blockage. Other fertilizers and herbicides applied to lawns also may contain toxic chemicals.

    The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) Animal Poison Control Center is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, to advise pet owners about potential pet toxicities. If you think your pet may have ingested a potentially poisonous substance, call (888) 426-4435. A consultation fee may apply.

  • Teach Your Cat to Love the Carrier

    Many people believe that their cats do not like and will never like their carrier. It doesn’t have to be that way! Recent studies show that when you train your cat to go into the carrier willingly using positive reinforcement, they show less stress on car rides, vet trips become shorter, and they don’t struggle to go into the carrier. This can be accomplished by making the carrier a part of their everyday life instead of only pulling it out when they are going to the vet. 

    With a proper introduction to the carrier, your cat will enjoy going into it and will even tolerate the car ride, as well! Here’s an easy, step-by-step process that will give your cat a positive new association to the carrier. Read through all the steps below, then check out our video tutorial to see some of the steps in action!

    Step 1: Desensitize

    • Leave the carrier around the house at all times. Make sure it is in a place where your cat already feels comfortable (ex. near the couch, your bed).
    • Turn the carrier into a “den.”
      – Remove the top and the door if it is a hard carrier.
      – Place one of their favorite beds in the open carrier – you can also use a piece of your clothing that has your scent for comfort.
      – Place a few of their favorite toys in the “den.”
    • Allow your cat to ignore or investigate as she sees fit; just don’t make a big deal out of it.
    • After a few days (possibly a few weeks), you should find that your cat is rather indifferent to the carrier, but possibly has now developed some level of interest.
    • Don’t rush it. Make sure your cat’s comfortable with the carrier in the room before moving on.

    Step 2: Positive Association with Food

    Once the previous step has been completed and any negative association has been lessened as much as possible, you can start to create a positive association much more effectively with food. 

    Start by putting some highly desirable food in the entrance of carrier, like chicken or tuna. If possible, try to make sure your cat is nearby and is aware that you are putting something in the carrier, but don’t make a big deal out of it. If they ignore it, be patient and just keep trying. 

    Gradually move the food further inside until it is at the back so they must show a little courage and go all the way inside if they want the treat. If you’ve already gotten your cat to eat inside the carrier, then make sure you feed them every meal in the open carrier for a while.

    Provide a “jackpot treat.” This is a treat that they will never turn down and something they should only get when they go into the carrier on their own. This will begin to associate the carrier with their favorite treats. Jackpot treats can be lickable treats, their favorite canned food, or anything they typically come running for when they hear, see or smell it.

    Step 3: Add the Top of the Carrier Back On

    Once your cat is comfortable with its “den,” put the top back on. Make sure to do this when the cat is not around. Continue to use food and jackpot treats, as usual. Do not rush to the next step and only proceed when your cat is comfortable going inside the crate with the top on.

    Step 4: Add the Door Back on the Carrier

    Now put the door back on the carrier. This step can be problematic due to the sound of the door opening or closing. That can be a real trigger for cats. We suggest taping the door open initially so it doesn’t swing back and forth.

    Once your cat is comfortable eating inside the carrier, try gently pushing the door mostly closed while they’re eating. Don’t lock it at this stage. If your cat becomes distressed or agitated, open the door immediately. If they become distressed or agitated, you may want to slow down the process and take a few steps back. 

    When you are able to gently shut the door without a problem, you can begin to lock the door. Start with just a few seconds, and if your cat becomes distressed, open the door immediately.

    This will eventually create a positive association with having the door closed while they are inside. Eventually you will be able to leave the door closed for a few minutes after they’ve finished their food.

    Step 5: Moving the Carrier

    Once you get to the point where you can have your cat in the carrier with the door closed comfortably, try picking up the carrier, putting it back down, then opening the door.

    When your cat is comfortable being picked up and put back down while in the carrier, the next step is to pick the cat up in the carrier and carry them into another room before putting the carrier down and opening the door

    This will begin to replicate conditions that your cat will experience when it’s time to visit the vet. We are trying to teach them that they are not going to the vet every time they go into the carrier. If your cat’s experience remains the same and predictable 99 times out of 100, they will be able to manage the one time in the carrier while going to visit the vet.

    Step 6: Getting the Cat Used to the Car

    Once your cat is comfortable being inside the carrier for 7-10 minutes, you’re ready to try taking them out for a drive. Line the bottom of carrier with something absorbent (such as newspaper) in case of an accident, and put something warm and soft (such as a towel or small blanket) on top of it.

    Encourage your cat to enter the carrier.If this is difficult, you will need to continue with the previous two steps for a while longer before attempting to drive anywhere.

    Put the carrier securely on one of the car seats. Make sure that the carrier is on a blanket to reduce vibration, and is fastened by a seat belt so that it does not slide around. Also, make sure that little (if any) direct sunlight gets into the carrier; this could be very unpleasant for the cat and may undo some of your hard work. You can do this by placing a blanket over the carrier – just keep the weather in mind

    Go for a drive that lasts considerably less time than the cat’s shortest comfortable time in the carrier so far. Even driving 200 yards up and down the road will be fine for the first trip.

    Every day for the next week, take your cat out for a longer drive, then continue to do so regularly now and then over time. Eventually, going out in the cat carrier will be no stress at all.

    Important Reminders:

    • Any time your cat shows signs of stress during the process, you need to stop and go back to the previous step and give them extra time to acclimate. This isn’t something you can tackle the day before a vet visit – find a period of time when you can really commit to the process without feeling rushed, and you’ll both benefit from a stress-free experience. Continue building positive associations and you’ll soon find that you have actually trained your cat to love the carrier!
    • However, if there is an emergency, please get your cat to the vet as soon as possible. If they are showing signs of stress, we recommend gently wrapping your cat in a towel before placing them in their carrier.
    YouTube video
  • Solving Litterbox Issues

    My cat stopped using her litterbox. What can I do?

    Inconsistent litter box usage or eliminating outside of the litter box is a common behavior seen in cats. Despite being a common behavior, it is not desirable. The two most common reasons why a cat stops using the litter box consistently are medical conditions and stress or anxiety. The first step to solving your cat’s litter box issues is to contact your veterinarian to discuss your concerns. 

    There are several medical conditions that lead to litter box issues such as urinary tract infections, diarrhea, and physical pain or injury. If the behavior continues once all medical issues have been ruled out, then the problem is likely behavioral. 

    Litter Box Set Up

    First, check out our “Litter Box Success” information to ensure your set-up at home follows the suggested recommendations. Even if your cat previously used your current litter box set up, your cat’s preferences may have changed. There may also be an outside influence you are not aware of that is making your cat less comfortable with the current set-up. If your cat continues to urinate and/or defecate outside of their box after following our “Litter Box Success” information, then it could be other factors influencing your cat’s behavior.

    Household Stress or Changes

    Changes in the household or home environment (ex. having a baby, an adult child moves back home, shifting from remote to office work, remodeling, etc.) can cause cats to feel stressed, leading to inconsistent litter box usage. If a household change has occurred, make sure your cat has access to a separate, comfortable space with their litter box, food, and water. It might also be helpful to reintroduce them to the household slowly, one room at a time, as if you just brought them home for the first time. In some ways, these changes do make it feel like a “new” home to them. Slowly introducing your cat to these changes could help them feel more at ease. 

    Addition of a New Animal(s) 

    Adding a new pet to your home can be stressful for your resident cat. When bringing home a new animal, make sure to follow a slow and appropriate introduction process (see handouts on cat-dog and cat-cat introductions).

    If you added a new dog to the household, ensure your cat has easy access to their litter box, food, and water without having to cross paths with the dog. Continue to provide this type of access even after the introduction process. We recommend installing baby gates that will allow your cat access to dog-free areas of the home. You can have the gates flush with the floor for your cat to jump over, or you can raise the gates 6-8 inches off the floor so they can scoot under. In addition, cats feel more comfortable at higher levels, like on a cat tree or counter. Consider creating areas throughout your home that are elevated and out of the dog’s reach, giving your cat plenty of safe spaces to perch. 

    If you are adding another cat to your family, provide them a second food and water bowl. Asking your cat to share resources with a new cat can cause tension and stress, even if it isn’t observable to us. By adding additional food and water bowls, you can eliminate the stress caused by sharing resources. Increasing the vertical space in your home is another way to reduce stress between cats. By utilizing cat trees or cat shelves, you are increasing the overall surface area the animals have access to. When animals have a larger space to share, they have more opportunities to separate from each other which will help reduce any tension or stress between them.

    Unwanted Visitors Outside of Your Home

    Some cats will become stressed at the sight of other cats outside and begin urinating by windows or doors. If this is case, block your cat’s sightlines to the outdoors. This could include closing shades/blinds, or covering the bottom half of windows and glass doors with cardboard or adhesive plastic coverings. 

    It will also be helpful to deter roaming cats from passing through your yard. Although it is not possible to 100% eliminate outdoor cats from using your yard as a hangout spot, there are several ways to deter this behavior including sprinklers or motion sensor lights. Do not use anything that could cause harm to the outdoor cats. 

    Cleaning Areas Where Your Cat Has Urinated/Defecated

    Cats have a highly developed sense of smell and will continue to soil places where they (or another cat) have previously gone. It is very important to properly clean a soiled area with an enzymatic cleaner which is specifically designed for urine/feces. Other types of cleaners may appear to have done the job, as the smell will be undetectable by our human noses, however, a cat’s superior sense of smell will still be able to detect it. If the cat soiled a washable item, soak it in an enzymatic cleaner prior to washing and follow the cleaning product’s instructions. The Wisconsin Humane Society retail store carries Simple Solutions Stain and Order Remover, available for purchase online.

    Litter Box Size

    Cats come in all different sizes. Some are too big for standard sized litter boxes or simply prefer an extra large box. Others might aim high when urinating, resulting in urine spraying over the edge of the litter box and onto the floor. If size is an issue for your cat, consider making your own litter box using Rubbermaid containers. If you need a larger surface area, choose a container that has low sides and a large bottom. Generally, these containers are designed to slide under a bed for storage but also make a great litter box for extra-large cats. If your cat needs taller sides, choose a deep container and cut a hole in the side for your cat to easily enter and exit. 

    Relocating and Adding Litter Boxes

    There are times when even though you have the appropriate number of litter boxes, adding additional boxes can be beneficial for your cat. This is important when you have a large home with multiple floors, multiple animals, or a cat who simply prefers access to extra boxes. Try adding more litter boxes to your home and monitor which boxes are being used. Over time if there is a box that is not being used, you can try removing it. 

    If your cat has chosen a new favorite place to urinate that is not in the litter box, adding a litter box in that location may be a solution. Over time if your cat is using that box consistently you can slowly move the box to a more convenient place in your home. Make sure to take your time and move the box gradually over several days or weeks. 

    Deterrents 

    If your cat has found a new favorite location (or several) to urinate/defecate outside of the litter box, it is helpful to use deterrents to reduce the likelihood of your cat using that location again. When choosing a deterrent, the goal is to simply make the location less appealing, not to cause any harm or stress to the cat. 

    • Use an upside-down carpet runner or aluminum foil to cover the surface the cat was urinating/defecating on. 
    • Cats generally do not like the smell of citrus and will avoid it. Try placing a citrus air freshener or citrus scented cotton balls near the area the cat was soiling.
    • If the room is dark, install motion sensor lights.
    • Set up barriers (ex. tall baby gates, magnetic screen doors, etc.) or close doors in your home to block access to the rooms where your cat was choosing to urinate/defecate.

    If you have additional questions, please contact the Wisconsin Humane Society Behavior Department at asktheexpert@wihumane.org or 414-461-6173.